SSD21SW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

First step, call the repair man. He listened, and then said to get a new refrigerator, since this one is 28 years old and the repairs could amount to a significant part of the price to buy new. Even if he fixed this, it could develop other problems, yada. So we went out to buy and discovered nothing suitable that would fit in that slot of our kitchen! We'd need new counter top and cabinets to fix this problem! So we went to the Internet and searched to find the likely source of the problem and the parts schematic at PartsSelect.com. Yah! We ordered the part, and then found we had no idea how to install it. Sooo, back to the Internet, and eventually got some good clues - it goes in the kick space under the front, and just plugs in, once you can get to it by removing the bracket that holds it. Working underneath a refrigerator is not complicated but it's awkward. The form of the new timer was not exactly the same, but it does function correctly. We have no experience whatsoever with appliance repair, so pretty amazed at our success. This old Amana looks very good inside and out and is now working perfectly again. If it lasts a few more years, we will be thrilled to have spent $15 to save $500. We can always buy new later on.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

I first removed the panel in the bottom so I could see the fan and the Bimetal thermostat. Also removed back panel so I could see the tester wire and make sure I was going to be able to pull it though the small hole. Removed the old thermostat. Clipped new one on made sure I had reconnected all plugs correctly. Turned on refrigerator and waited about 30 minutes to see if fan kicked on and all was good replaced panels. This was totally great for me, I'm a woman and for me this was very exciting for me to be able to fix it myself without having to call in a repair man or just replace the refrigerator.

I removed the screws and pulled the unit out a few inches. The wiring harness was difficult to disconnect since I did not know how it was being held in place. Once I did get it disconnected I saw there was a tab that had to be depressed. There was an access hole for depressing the tab but I did not see it until I had the unit removed. The instructions only say disconnect the harness, but not how. So I learned the hard way, damaging the harness.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

took out back panel of freezer compartment , exposed fan and coil thermostat was clipped on to coil, removed ,replaced,each wire one at time , the 2 extra wire that go out back dont go to anything its for factory testing.clipped them off pulled out from back, put wire ties on to keep wires from fan area . closed up . timer is in a metal box under the freezer door pulled off bottom facia 1 screw on metal box remove old timer installed new . everything working great now. no more warm beer

It took longer to assemble the tools, empty the ice and dispose of the ice than to disassemble and reassemble the bucket. Easy!!!

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

Timer: Removed 2 screws from cover. Removed 2 screws to remove Timer. Installed new Timer & reassembled (15 min).
Thermostat: Removed screws from lower panel in the freezer. Removed thermostat from the cooling coil. Disconnected electrical connections. Had to cut 2 wires coming from fridge & install plastic piece provided. Made up all electrical connections (1 hour).

I pulled the refrigerator out, and turned off the water valve at the wall. I then removed 3 screws at the bottom of the back panel so I could access the water inlet value. I compared the new part with the part on my refrigerator to make sure they were the same. They were.

Using a pair of adjustable pliers, and placing a small pan under it to catch the water in the line, I loosened and removed the water line.

I then removed the wires connected to the water inlet valve, noting how they were connected. I then removed the 2 screws holding the water inlet valve in place, and removed the old inlet valve.

I put the new inlet valve in place, and making sure to hook up the ground wire, replaced the 2 screws to hold the inlet valve in place. I reconnected the wires, and then the water line.

I turned the water supply on at the wall and checked for leaks. I then tried the water dispenser and it now worked perfectly. I tried it a few more times and then checked again for water leaks.

Replaced the 3 screw holding the back cover on, and pushed the refrigerator back into place.

Mission accomplished, and saving at least $75!

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Unscrewed back of fridge and unplugged relay from compressor and plugged in the new one remember that the new one turns 180 degrees from existing switch.