SHVM98W73N/11 Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

Slip the wheel onto the axle, snap the clip facing up onto the frame

The dishwasher has inserts that can be raised and lowered to adjust the space between the dishes.
One of the holders broke.
I took out the old one and put a new one in.

1) The hardest part was identifying the piece.
This is the insert holder near the front of the rack, to the right of the cutlery basket (as you face the dishwasher)
The drawings on the site are tiny so it is hard to figure out which is the correct piece
There are 3 different numbers for each piece.
the number on the rack assembly diagram (0647)
the PartSelect Number (PS8728043) and
the Manufacturer Part Number (00616990)
I wound up ordering a number of parts and returning the ones that I didn't need (at my expense)

2) Be sure to take pictures before you remove the old piece. Once the broke piece was removed, it was not obvious to me how it the new piece connected.

Once I had the correct piece, pulling out the old one and installing the new one took no time at all.

Initially, I received an E15 error. I evaluated for leaks but couldn't find anything except for water in the bottom of the dishwasher after about 30 minutes of the initial cycle. After discovering the hole in the flow tub, I order the part. It came a few days later & replace the part within a 15 minutes of receiving it. I didn't think it would resolve the issue but it did. Thank you!

removed machine so left side water drain matrix was accessible, replaced that unit, reinstalled machine to its built-in location.

The new rack arrived nearly ready to install. The brackets and wheels that connect the rack to the track in the dishwasher were already on the new rack when it was delivered. All I had to do was move some plastic parts from the old rack to the new rack. This is very easy and does not require any tools since the parts snap onto the racks. It's worth taking a moment to study the way each part is attached to the old rack before moving it to the new rack. Pay particular attention to exactly how & where the spray arm tube snaps to the rack. That tube took me two tries to get right. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes.

Really simple. You pull out the drain filter plate and pull the filter off the support and replace. I gave everything a good cleaning and put it back in place.

Easily removed the old one by carefully pulling it and repeated this procedure to replace it. Total time took less than 15 minutes

The problem and solution were described on the internet. I ordered a set of 4 wheels for $43+. I received one wheel. When I called Drew told me that the order was correct, but the description on the web page was wrong. He was to sent me a return label, but it has not arrived. Since then I went to the Bosch website, found the set of wheels (Part 10016657) for $42. They have been installed and the problem seems to have been fixed.

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

The spray arm makes a slide in attachment to a slide out drawer. It was removed by forcing out of the connection on the back of the drawer and the replacement was installed by sliding it into the same connection point.

Repair was simple once the problem was diagnosed with the inlet valve.
Most of the work was in disconnecting the necessary lines so the dishwasher could be removed from the cabinets to replace the bad valve. Replacing the valve was easy. Reinstalling the dishwasher was just the reverse of the removal. The replacement part matched the original and solved the problem we had.

Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.

Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.

Part arrived on time. Double checked it was the part I needed. I unclipped the old seal and snapped the new piece in place.

Removed the middle basket and turned it upside down. Unplugged the spray arm from the middle basket. Snapped the new spray arm into the middle basket.
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too

Determined that the unloader valve was leaking.
Removed the unloader valve from valve body.
I could see a crack in the nylon portion of the valve. This would not let the relief valve operate.
Went to the internet (Part Select) and found the replacement valve. There are a lot of different sizes of unloader valve. Partselect help me select the correct valve.
The key was the valve body, the unloader valve inserts into the valve body. There are two types of valve bodies, a 4 bolt and a 5 bolt. They look the same but do not interchange. I needed the 4 bolt.
I was nervous as the new unloader valve was a different construction than my old valve. It worked perfectly.
Replacement was easy.
Locate the unloader valve. It is part of the pump body. You can recognize it by the spring extending out from the valve body.
Remove the “U” shaped clip that holds the unloader valve in the valve body.
I used pliers to grab the spring and pulled the unloader valve from the valve body. It took a little pulling pressure to remove.
Note the orientation of the unloader valve I. The valve body. You want to install the unloader valve with the same orientation.
It may take a little force to seat the valve. I used a little silicone grease to lube the valve. A small tap on the end of the valve to insure it is fully seated.
It has to be seated so the “U” shaped retaining clip can be inserted to hold the unloader valve in place. Again, a light tap was necessary to fully seat the clip.
That was it, I was back operating my pressure washer