SF367LXSS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

I remove bottom trim which is held on by 3 screws and try to install new bottom trim, did not work well. I then remove yop handle assem. Then the door glass which you need to clean after. Then install the new bottom trim then insert the glass into the new bottom strip using masking tape to hold the glass and side strips in place prior to installing the the top handle piece which is held on by two screws. Not a hard job to do.

Removed door per instructions in manual. Removed racks and storage drawer per manual. Removed two phillips head screws holding bottom pan and removed pan. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter tube (#12) and withdrew tube from the cavity. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter and bracket to the tube. Unplugged elcetrical connection to igniter and installed new igniter in reverse order. Too bad the igniter wasn't the problem.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

all I did was replace the igniter and that fixed my problem simple to do.

Replaced bake igniter only as recommended by others, no need to buy the whole unit. The bottom screw is difficult to access, use a 1/4 inch socket set with 8 mm socket. Advice to remove bottom storage drawer to make sure wire is connected to the igniter. So far it works fine.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

oven would not light but broiler and range top would. removed oven racks. removed 2 finger tight screws on oven pan floor and pulled up oven floor. also removed storage drawer under oven- also 2 screws. now your oven should look like the inside of your gas grill. removed 2 more screws on burner plate and removed plate. unplugged igniter and 2 screws holding igniter. replaced igniter and put together in reverse order. oven now works perfectly