SF350BEGW5 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.

First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.

I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.

There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!

The spark igniter will not restart it self. Ordered the part and was very easy to put in ( 6 screws ) saved me over $100.00 in laber and parts. I also was told that the spark igniter was not sold by it self and they were wrong, you can buy it on line at Part select . com Thank you

screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord
#2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed.
#3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the front of the regulator.
#4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference.
#5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear.
#6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat.
#7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame.
#8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator.
#9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw.
#10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks.
#11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation.
#12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

switched out latch asy,rear

Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

This is a very simple repair. 1st shut off your gas. Disconnect your gas line from the gas shut off value to the Gas Safety Value(GSV/R)/Regulator. Disconnect the other 2 lines attached to the GSV/R. Remove the 4 mounting screws holding the GSV/V. Wiggle the GSV/R from its location. Carefully remove the 3 wires connected to the GSV/R. Install your new GSV/R in reverse order applying sealant to the threaded joints. test for leaks.............. your done!!!

First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.

On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the solenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.