SCB2000CCC - Instructions

Ordered a new part, installed it.

The repair was simple -- I just placed the ceramic tray. It took longer to find the part! They had the best price, and my part came quickly!

The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

Turn off the circuit breaker to the microwave. Remove the 4 black wood screws that secure the microwave to the cabinet. Pull the microwave all the way out and set it on something that leaves you access to the middle access panel on the bottom. Remove the access panel on the bottom that has one screw. Unhook the 2 cables to the motor remembering which color goes where. Remove the 2 screws for the motor and replace the motor. Finish up in reverse...

This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!

This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.

Fun and easy fix for my kids.

The countdown timer was working but no "cooking" happening. Did not hear the familiar sound of the heating part working.

Determined it might be some simple switches for under $15 dollars. Bought one of each. They allow the microwave to turn on/activate by signaling that the door is properly latched. My wife noticed that it was failing and then failed over the course of about a day. Several times where it worked, then did not work. The timer was counting down one time and then when she opened the door the microwave heating component turned on. Guess it had activated the switch as she was opening the door.

Procedure to repair
- Unplug
- Remove two screws on front top - allows you to remove the vent. Realized there was a charcoal filter there that I had never replaced so ordered that after the fix.
- Remove two screws to pull off the front right panel (area where your microwave buttons are) One at the top under the before mentioned vent and one under the microwave on the far right corner.
- Have someone hold the panel because wiring is to short to place it on a ledge while connected or take a picture and remove connections. I simply held it while my daughter undid the micro switches.
- Carefully remove micro switches. There were two "orange" button ones so I chose the top one to replace along with the green button one that I had ordered, so I simply pulled an orange from the bottom and a green from the top latch area. You may have remove the part that holds the switches since it was a little tough with the wires in the way and not knowing how the switches stay put.
- plug in new switches and place in the brackets that hold them in place
- reverse everything you did.
Viola - a working microwave vs purchasing a brand new for several hundred dollars or having to call in a technician.I love that my young kids did this project with me and we actually got it running. Don't like to have to throw away more items at the landfill.

Semi-Handy Man

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

tested all 3 of the door switche for continuity, the top switch was faulty, replaced it,for approx $4.00 and saved a $350 dollar microwave.

I decided the door switch was the problem because 2 problems happened at the same time. I removed the 4 screws for the top outside cover and the 1 screw that held the control board. After removing the control board screw, I lifted it up and removed it. This gave me access to the 3 door switches. I then removed the 2 screws that held the plastic piece that holds the switches. This made it easier then to replace the switches.

Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.