SB520SW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped off the grill via the one remaining clip. Used a flathead screwdriver to pop the old, broken clip off. Then popped the new clip on to the holder. Done!! Super easy. Wish I had done it 2 years ago when the thing first broke instead of trying to jury-rig it!

removed door.examined problem,. installed part. super easy

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

More than anything else the service that has been provided here is second to none. In the futher if parts are needed I'll stop by and see you again.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

I simply went to PartSelect and ordered a new kick-plate from the illustrated parts catalog. A few days later it arrived via FedEx and was easily installed within about five minutes. The clips that hold the part to the front of the refrigerator, push on over plastic tabs on the back of the kick-plate. They were packaged separately and at first were very tight and uncooperative. I placed a small socket over the end of the tab and gently tapped each clip it into place with a small hammer. One word of caution, the metal clips are very sharp. It was only after I finished the installation did I notice that I had apparently cut my index finger during the process. Nothing serious, but probably avoidable had I been more aware of the sharp edges.

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Removed the broken grille kickplate. (Just pulls right off) Tried to put the new clips on the new grill kickplate. Didn't want to go on without alot of force. Didn't want to crack the new part. So...I heated up the metal clips and placed them (used pliers-too hot to handle) on the place that held the clips and they slid right on and believe me...they won't come off either. Put the grille kickplate on the bottom section of the refrigerator and snapped right on.
Everything looks good.

First I pulled the fridge out from the wall and turned off the water supply. Next I removed the access panel on the bottom front of the fridge. Located behind the panel was the water supply line for the water dispenser in the door which has a disconnect the I simply unscrewed so that I would be able to lift the door off of the bottom hinge. Next I took one screw out of the top hinge cover to access three small bolts and disconnect the electrical connections to the door. After removing the bolts I lifted the door off and took out the small screw holding in the bottom cam and replaced with the new one. After reinstalling door I removed all the small bolts holding on the freezer gasket. After this the gasket easily pulls out and began installing the new gasket. This part of the job was the most time consuming. After I had the gasket back behind the pinch rail I began reinstalling the bolts. Since the gasket was bent during shipping I simply took a hair dryer to the slightly bent parts of the gasket to get them to lay flat. Freezer now has a great seal and stays closed when refrigerator door is being shut.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!