SA31HK-10KXS-R Admiral Range - Instructions

snaped them into oven cavity attached temp bulb job complete

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

remove racks out of the oven. remove very bottom of oven and you will then have access to the ignitor.the part was a little difficult to remove due to the self tapping screws snapping upon removal.drilled them out and installed new ignitor.oven now works fantastic.

ordered new broiler pan

Remove door. Disconnect power supply from the range.Remove shelves.Remove burner and disconnect power from igniter.Remove bad igniter and replace with new one,reconnect igniter to power supply. Replace burner and all parts that were removed.Re- connect appliance to power source. Range is ready to be used.

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!

After unplugging the oven from the wall, I removed the grates and floor of the oven, and the thing that spreads the flame out. Needless to say, I'm no repairman! Next I simply unplugged and unscrewed the old element and screwed and plugged the new one in. Replaced the floor, grates, and flame thing in, and we were back in business! It was a very easy fix, and Partselect.com was a pleasure to research and do business with! I would certainly recommend this site to others.

well my brother was over,he said he had the same stove with the same symtoms so we removed bottom tray of oven lifting from the back first then the front.there inback is the igniter.pulled wire out carefully and unplugged and unscrewed 2 small bolt's,replaced igniter remembering it is very fragile,plugged igniter in replaced insulation around wire,saved me from a new oven,thank you partsselect.ps part arrived the next day wow

Fist I removed the screws on the front-sides of the oven. Then I turned off the gas, by adjusting the in-line valve. I then unscrewed the gas fitting going into the bottom of the oven. I pulled the oven out, being careful not to put too much pull on the electrical cord. I put a bench in front of the oven and set it down.
I then removed the oven racks, and the plate in the bottom. Bottom element is bake, top element is broil. I unscrewed the igniter, then disconnected its plastic wire connector on the back of the oven, then pushed and pulled the connector into the oven and out the door.
Then I ordered my part for $30 less than Sears from PartSelect, and it got here STUPID FAST. I hooked it up and put everything back together, no big deal, BOOM - Cornbread!

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.