S61STRP Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Step 1 :I had to remove the ice drip tray just pull it out.
Step 2 remove the 4 or 5 screws holidung in the control module (push button display pad)
step 3: pull the plug from the diaplay panel
Step 4: remove broken door from slot and slide new one in. Be carfull not to let the brass plug fall out of it does it just slides back in.
Reverse all steps your done about 20- minutes..I am a building engineer by trade. I think the average person 30 to 60 minutes..

Very easy to remove one screw holding the enclosuer, then unplug the wire harness, remove 4 screws holding the solinoid, and the 4 screws holding the auger motor. The hardest part was removing the auger from the shaft of the motor. this took most of the time. reassembly went very fast.

removed the ice chute door, unhooked the computer board replaced the flap. The only problem was the spring loaded part of the ice chute door come up and the little plunger came loose. It only took a few minutes to replace the plunger back in the holder and replaced the ice chute door. The best part of the whole job was that I ordered the part on Monday afternoon and the part was at my door Wednesday. The Parts did an excellent job of getting the part to me quickly.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

I removed the water filter located in the refrigerator and replaced it with the bypass plug. The ice cubes and the water dispenser work properly . I am pleased with the outcome especially the price was only $15 and less than 5 minutes of my time. Maytag recommends replacing the water filter every six months at $40 a filter. One can see how this will add up in time. Eventually I am installing an after market water filter in line prior to the refrigerator.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Unscrewed old filter and screwed in new filter.

It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.

googled for answer, deduced relay/switch problem. googled again for parts, found partselect.com, ordered part. 2 days later & $70 lighter, my 8yr old Maytag was working again! Parts were good fit, instructions were decent enough. Not for inexperienced tinkerer though.

1/4 turn of old filter. it popped out. Inserted new filter, 1/4 turn and it clicked in. Piece of cake. I'm a freakin' genius.

Discovered ice door tab was broken. Ice door out of position.
Disassembled door dispenser, pretty easy, two torx screws on bottom, two on upper part of unit. Slid unit up slightly, it sets over two studs on the top. Unplugged wire connector, set aside unit. Looked on internet for a replacement part. These folks had the easiest to use web site. Found the part, ordered the part, received it next day, but only ordered the least expensive delivery method, since we are both in Florida it worked out well.
I did not know when I ordered this part I would get it this quickly. Because cold air was pouring out of the hole left by the removal of the ice door, I put wide painters tape over the hole on the inside of the freezer door. This greatly reduced the flow of cold air.
After I received the part, I clipped it in place and reassembled the unit, it did not work. The solenoid that moves the door just hummed like it was jammed. I took it back apart and realized that I did not get the bracket that moves the ice door reattached properly. After I made sure the bracket was properly attached, i reassembled the unit and it worked great. It actually took longer to type this description than it did to do the job.
Good Luck, Mike

The driver that turns the screw broke off the ice enclosure. I removed the side panel, removed one screw underneath the enclosure, unclipped the wire harness and removed the entire enclosure.

I did one unnecessary step and removed the magnet from the housing. Better to remove the entire housing, then transfer the motor and magnet to the new housing.

I noticed that others had problems unscrewing the drive unit (which you need to do to transfer it to the new housing.) I simply held the center hub with a pair of pliers, and gave the drive one tap with a hammer. Like the other reviews, note that it unscrews opposite way.

Reassembly was quicker and easier; just undo everything you did to get the housing out of the freezer.

The actuator rubber pad had hardened over time so that it wouldn't allow the solenoid to retract and stop the flow. To fix: Turn off fuse to fridge. Removed the screws on fountain faceplate. Remove faceplate. Unscrew fountain computer assembly (2 or 3 screws) to access the actuator pad from behind. Unplugged the computer ribbon. Replace black actuator pad.

It works fine now.

First removed the old water filter and replaced it with the filter bypass. Very simple and no tools needed