Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select
- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken. - 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease. - the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.
the hinge sring broke on one side of the oven door
Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
burner would not get hot, switch did not feel right
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly. First killed power the electric stove. I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.
I removed about 8 screws to disassemble the door to get the gasket in. This was an easy task. On the first use of the oven, it shattered one pane of the double glass door window. I think I installed it backwards since one pane is tempered glass, I believe. I installed the new window and am heating it up now - hope it doesn't break.
Seal was badly damaged on door of 24 year old range.
Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter. As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping. Removed old seal and put new one in its place. Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one. Put door back on the hinges and the job was done. Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.
We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.
Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.
oven would not work proplerley & rocker switch sticking
I took the control panel loose and dropped it down . Then removed wires one at a time and changed out the oven control switch. You better not start pulling all the wires off unless you can read a wireing diagram. I changed the rocker switch while panel was dropped down.