RT25BKXAW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.

I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.



























problem.

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

Very easy. Left the front of the refrigerator so it is approx. 4 inches of the floor. (used a two by four. Removed the screws (one for each roller). Removed the rollers and replaced with new rollers. Reinstalled the screws with secures the rollers to the refrigerator. Done

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

The new shelf support part fit perfectly. I needed no tools just slid it on the existing bracket. Super easy.

I simply slid off the broken supports, and slid the new ones on.

I removed one bolt and took out the old roller after first blocking up the fridge. Then I was puzzled for a moment because the hole in the new assembly was not tapped. But then I saw that the old bolt was a self tapping bolt. I used it to tap the hole then removed it and installed the new assembly. No sweat job.

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.