RT196LCF0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video you had on-line and it was simple. Thank you so much

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

Based on other problems listed I determined I had a bad thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. Since my refrig is over 14 years old I decided to replace all three components since I don't have testing equipment. As a former aircraft mechanic in the Air Force who did a lot of removal and replacement of components I didn't have any problems. Your videos were very helpful and on point. My refrigerator is now working perfectly. My rational for replacing the three components was it was still cheaper than having a refrigeration person to come out and I received your parts the next day. By the way, the defrost timer is located outside in the bottom left front of the refrigerator while the videos suggested that it was inside under the control panel. Thanks!

It was fairly easy to replace the thermostat. Unplug the refrigerator first. Then remove the refrigertor light bulb and 3 screws on the plastic cover that houses the thermostat and defrost timer. Unplug the thermostat from the wiring on the refrigerator and remove the plastic housing holding the thermostat. Remove two screws holding the thermostat and replace with the new one. Put everything back together in reverse order. Unfortunately, this did not corrrect my problem. The refrigerator is well over 30 years old and I had narrowed down the problem to the thermostat because the old one was hard to turn to adjust. About 10 years ago, I replaced the defrost heater in the rear of the freezer compartment for the same problem, and didn't think that would be the problem this time. Well, as it turned out, I checked the resistance on the defrost heater and it was was bad again. I replaced the heater this week I got from PartSelect, and the refrigerator cycles fine now. Replacing the heater is a little more work that changing the thermostat. You have to remove the freezer compartment fan, fan vent, and back inside wall of the freezer section to expose the coils and the heater element. You just need a socket screw driver. Then you have to reach inside and unplug each end of the heater to check it with your ohm meter. A bad element will show up as an open circuit. Then to replace it, you have to maneuver it around to get if away from the coils and remove a couple of clips. Anyone with some common sense can do it, but it can be a bit challenging.

Replace evap fan motor. Take a close-up picture of the evaporator fan motor installation prior to removing. Take pictures as removing various components.

Removed shelving, and rear panels. Replaced condenser fan and defrost thermostat. Defrost coil ohmed fine. Reassembled and plugged in fridge with thermometers inside. Freezer at 22degrees and fridge at 32 degrees. My first time repairing a fridge. the partselect videos were very helpful.

I found this website via a google search and clicked on the link suggesting solutions for the symptoms I had. I decided to order the part (defrost timer) that was proven the larger percentage of time to fix my issue (warm refrigerator) but decided to also purchase the evaporator fan motor as it was suggested by my brother to replace it as well. We powered off the refrigerator and removed the back wall of the freezer and completely defrosted the unit. This seemed to be the most work and longest time to complete. We used a hair dryer to do this. Once the ice was gone, we replaced the defrost timer, which seemed to fix the warm refrigerator part. We didn't immediately swap out the evaporator fan as the power plugs did not connect properly and it was a little confusing on how to accomplish this. I called partselect back and they didn't have anyone that could talk to me throught the replacement process but recommended we call frigidaire. Meanwhile, we found out that the defrost timer corrected the warm refrigerator and now that the evaporator fan could move (no longer frozen in ice) it was making a lot of noise. So we contacted fridgidaire, and they were able to provide me with a similar video on connecting the power between the new evaporator fan motor and the refrigerator. . We ended up snipping both power connectors (from fridge and new part) and twisted the wires togehter and now the fan is moving without noise, the freezeer and refrigerator is working like a champ! Very happy outcome!

All I had to do was change out motors, and the fam would spin right,and the freezer was alive again. With your older models you may have to re-mount the motor bracket in the back for the fan to clear,due to the fact that the motor sits alittle lower than the old model

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

I first thought the defroster heater broke - took the back wall of the freezer off and cooling fins were fine. Then took the defroster timer out and opened it up. The contacts were badly burnt so the compressor and fan ran during only part of the cooling cycle. Replacing the timer took less than 5 minutes - turn off the power, remove one screw to take out the control box, cut the ground wire (new timer housing is plastic and does not have a ground connection), remove two screws to unmount the timer, unplug the old timer, plug in the new timer, fasten with two screws, put the control unit in and fasten with one screw, turn power back on.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!

Unplugged the frig. Removed temp control module from frig, 1 screw with nut driver. Activated defrost timer by rotating adjustment until 2 clicks are heard. Removed two timer mounting screws, unpluged timer, plugged in the new timer, mounted it to the control module with 2 mounting screws. Replaced control module with the 1 mounting screw. Closed door and plugged it up.

You guys at Partselect are the best!!! Went to your site, typed in my appliance symptoms, and received possible fixes. Ordered the suggested parts (under $50) on a Sunday night and got em Tuesday am. Installed the easiest one first and Voila!!!! Frig is working great. Thanks Bob S

Remove 4 screws that hold up overhead controls, this is also the part that holds the light. Unplug the timer and replace. Super simple and runs great now. After you plug it in it may take a few minutes to kick on the compressor but it will. Also I was pleased it was a factory Frigidare part. Price was right.

The drain pan fit to perfection on our Frigidaire refrigerator model FPE19V3AW1 from 1987(!!!).