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Models > RT17F5WMGG > Instructions

RT17F5WMGG Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the RT17F5WMGG
106 - 120 of 170
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Freezer Worked Fine, Refrigerator Was 47 Degrees
I went on partselect put in make and model number, a list showed the probable cause. I watched the how to video. When I received the part in short order I loosened 2 screws disconnected the wiring plug (sprayed it with contact cleaner) pluged it in, removed screws from old part put them in new one. Put timer back in its location and tightened the screws. Very eazy, works fine.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Allan E from Manhattan, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Overheat coils at the bottom inside of the freezer
I pick up very fast at these kind of small jobs but because of my very busy schedule I decided to call (2 times) technicians about my problem but none of them had any idea. About my repair, I removed the grill at the bottom of the refrigerator, unscrew a small plate (located on the bottom left side) that's holding the defrost timer. I plug on the new part, screw back the plate with the defrost timer and that was it. Don't forget to turn clockwise with your finger the timer until you hear a "click" and then turn it slightly more to the right. There is also a video on U-tube.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Costas from new hyde park, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Freezer and main compartment had wide temperature variations
I first thought the defroster heater broke - took the back wall of the freezer off and cooling fins were fine. Then took the defroster timer out and opened it up. The contacts were badly burnt so the compressor and fan ran during only part of the cooling cycle. Replacing the timer took less than 5 minutes - turn off the power, remove one screw to take out the control box, cut the ground wire (new timer housing is plastic and does not have a ground connection), remove two screws to unmount the timer, unplug the old timer, plug in the new timer, fasten with two screws, put the control unit in and fasten with one screw, turn power back on.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Joseph from Tullahoma, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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freezer cold--frig was warm
You guys at Partselect are the best!!! Went to your site, typed in my appliance symptoms, and received possible fixes. Ordered the suggested parts (under $50) on a Sunday night and got em Tuesday am. Installed the easiest one first and Voila!!!! Frig is working great. Thanks Bob S
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Robert from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Refrigerator was not cooling
Remove 4 screws that hold up overhead controls, this is also the part that holds the light. Unplug the timer and replace. Super simple and runs great now. After you plug it in it may take a few minutes to kick on the compressor but it will. Also I was pleased it was a factory Frigidare part. Price was right.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Scott from Norman, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Refregerator drain pan was cracked
The drain pan fit to perfection on our Frigidaire refrigerator model FPE19V3AW1 from 1987(!!!).
Parts Used:
Defrost Drain Pan - White
  • Carlos from Sierra Madre, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Freezer & fridge warm / condenser coils iced over
Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Daniel from North Plains, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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freezer frosted up and air could not circulate to the food section, causing the temperature to get warm, 55 degrees
I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • PAUL from WEIRTON, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Freezer worked, Frig would not cool.
Unplugged the frig. Removed temp control module from frig, 1 screw with nut driver. Activated defrost timer by rotating adjustment until 2 clicks are heard. Removed two timer mounting screws, unpluged timer, plugged in the new timer, mounted it to the control module with 2 mounting screws. Replaced control module with the 1 mounting screw. Closed door and plugged it up.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Dean from Sunset, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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fridge side was getting warm.
open freezer door two screws just below unscrew slide piece to side unplug reinstall very simple.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Darryl from Russellville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Refrig unit was frosting up top and bottom, did not properly defrost and stop cooling especially in lower compartment.
Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.
Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • BILL from GENOA, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Weird Noise that continued for at least 60 seconds control OFF.
Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Donald from Round Rock, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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the evaporator fan same time won't stater
change the evaporator fan motor kit working perfect
Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
  • Armando from Eagle pass, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Fan Motor Malfunction
Followed the instruction video. Removed the old one. Attached the fan blade, ground wire and connected power plug. Reinstalled with 2 screws. Works great.
Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
  • Donald from Waynesburg, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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It would freeze up or not cool at all, depended where the clock stopped.
Removed the lower trim panel from front of fridg. and loosened two screws enough to turn it about 1/4 inch so the screw heads were in the larger holes. Pulled it out disconnected the wire connector and transfered the heat shield and screws to the new clock, connected the wire connector and aligned the screws. tightened them and job done. Has worked like new sense. Thanks Roger
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
  • Roger from Owatonna, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the RT17F5WMGG
106 - 120 of 170