RS575PXR4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed to top panel - two screws in the back
Removed the screws from the metal panel holding the electronic board, remove the wire clips and rotated the metal panel up and out of the way.
Disconnected the three wire connector to the door switch cable - There must be a special tool for this as a basically destroyed the connector on the door switch cable.
Use a pliers to pull out the door switch from the front. This was not easy and I wound up having to destroy the door switch to get it out.
Inserted the new door switch cable first from the fron of the dryer and connected the new door switch cable connector to the dryer wiring harness.
Rotated the main electronic panel back in place, re-inserted the cable harness and re-inserted the bracket screws.
Re-installed the top panel and screws.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.

I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

I referred to the dryers tech sheet for troubleshooting. The start switch was found bad. However, all other connection looked good and control module board appeared ok until I removed it from the machine. Found bottom of board, directly under the motor relay, scorched and burnt. All other components checked out ok. A new $300.00 board would be needed to fix the problem. Not worth fixing a 10yr. old machine! New dryer on order. Sometimes you just can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! I returned the start switch that took over 8 days receive it. Lesson learned; electronic control boards have two sides. Always visually inspect both sides. It will save you alot of wasted troubleshooting time.

Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.