RGB533CEH8CC Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

Unplugged the range. Took out all the necessary screws and lifted up the cooktop cover. Unscrewed each gas tubes connecting to each gas burner's dial to allow more working space. Pulled out the old thermostat, installed the new one. Put back the gas tubes and all other necessary screws. Plugged the range and tested out the new thermostat.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

I read the instructions from other peoples repairs. One note: unplug stove, and turn gas off, remember where wires go. I didnt have to remove top of stove completly.

unplug power and turn off gas/// had to remove all star screws on top/remove ign wire from each burnner/now remove stove top/ adj wrench and remove nuts from the front nobs and relace with new front orifice tubes NOTE: Front orifice tube is the leftside. Front orifice HOLDER is the right side. put back top, open front to put hand in to make adjustments to ign wires close top and reinstall star screws and using finger to hold and make adjustments on top now turn power and gas on. I use soapwater to test for leaks/ leo gubin

I removed the two nuts that secure the rear orifice tubes. This allowed me to lift the range top to access the broken tubes. Once lifted I removed the nuts that held the broken orifice tubes. I then connected the new orifice tubes. I removed the three(star)screws that fasten the orifice brackets under the range top. Doing this allowed me to connect the new tubes without having to maneuver them at all. I then lowered the top just enough to reattach the brackets. After securing the rear tubes I snapped the range top back into place. Just remember, if you use propane for cooking then you must remove the brass orifices from the old tubes and place them in the new ones. If you don't do this then your flame will not burn properly. Simply unscrew them from the old tubing and put them in the new tubing.

Easily glide in.

Replaced old burner element with new, easy

Very easy to remove grates, burner cover and remove old burner head. Very simple process, but surprised that there was no efficient way to clean carbon deposits from my old burner. Burner video instructions on line insured I installed the new burner head correctly (actually, pretty hard to get wrong), and burner worked correctly immediately. Will likely replace other burners in time as the new one is so "silvery" colored compared to my other burners.

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

I removed two bolts at the rear of the oven bottom. I pulled the old oven bottom out, and put the new oven bottom in. I put the two bolts back in and voila it looks like a new oven. Done in less than 15 minutes.

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)