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Models > RGB508PEHC > Instructions

RGB508PEHC General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RGB508PEHC
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Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).

My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.

The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)

TL;DR:

-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
Parts Used:
Oven Thermostat
  • Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
Parts Used:
Oven Thermostat
  • Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Fawn from MEREDITH, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven Would Not Stay Lit/Smell Of Gas
The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Melvin from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The pipe that carry the gas to the ignition part was damaged, therefore the burner was not lightening up.
Just have to remove the old kit and replace it with the new one. No tool required.
Parts Used:
Double Burner Assembly
  • Hyojin from Monmouth Junction, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't heat
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Patricia from Naugatuck, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't light
All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly.

This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Marilyn from Cypress, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven wouldn't reach operating temperature.
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Donald from Racine, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burners were plugged
We bought our replacement burners from Part Select.com at half the price of another major appliance store. They came fast & fit perfect. All around, we are very happy.
Parts Used:
Double Burner Assembly
  • Heather from Wauconda, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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burner did not light
just lift the cover and put it on.less than 1 minute.
Parts Used:
Double Burner Assembly
  • Doan from Flushing, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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old burners were rusty and broken
I just lifted the old part and dropped the new one in. Everything fits perfectly. The new flame is a beautiful blue color.
Parts Used:
Double Burner Assembly
  • Henry from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cracks in the bruner due to corrosion
I bought a new Doble Burner assembly and replaced the old ones.
Piece of cake.
Parts Used:
Double Burner Assembly
  • Carlos from Miami, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out igniter kit
I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Scott from MARSEILLES, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't light. Ignitor wood glow but didn't have enough amperage to open the safety valve to let the gas flow
This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • William from FULTON, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven did not light
replace igniter
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
  • Mark from Southfield, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the RGB508PEHC
91 - 105 of 341