RC745*M1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

First I shut off the circuit breaker for the oven then removed the screws that hold the element in place. The element was pulled out about 3 inches and unscrewed the 2 screws to disconnect the two wires. Upon receipt of the new element, I simply reversed the above process and the oven performed like new. Very easy, very quick and very grateful to have the oven operating again and it was a very inexpensive fix.

1. Turn off power to range and remove element.
2. Remove clips from ceramic guards.
3. Disconnect wiring.
4. Connect wires to new element.
5. Install ceramic guards and clips
6. Attached element to range.
7. Restore power.

Replacing the part was fairly simple. Do not forget to dis-connect the element from the back.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

removed 2 nuts holding the element in the oven. removed 2 screws that secured the wires to the element. installed the new element in reverse.

turn off breaker in electrical panel....remove stove socket from outlet....remove rear panel from stove....undo wire connectios from broiler element....inside the oven, gently move thermostat wire out of the way....unbolt broiler plate from rear wall....remove broiler hanger and then broiler element....reverse procedure and you're all set.

Unplugged Stove, pulled away from wall. With smaller wrenches, took the two screw-nuts off the inside back and above that hold the broiler element in place. Since it is an older stove...took the back panel off the stove with philips screw-driver which consisted of 10 screws. Once that was removed was able to unscrew the broiler element from the two wires that provide the electricity. Used the flash light when I had to unfasten the screw-nuts inside the stove because kitchen lighting wasn't strong enough.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

Replaced damaged element exercising the care suggested in repair comments by previous customers. Old unit had screws connecting the broiler element to the stove's electrical supply wires, which were difficult to remove due to old age. Just took a little extra care to ensure that supply wires were not damaged during disconnect and after reconnecting the new element the broiler tested OK. It is once again broiling steak to perfection

I shut down the electric to the oven at the circuit breaker. Then i loosened the mounting screws and pulled the element from the back wall of oven. Then i disconnected the two leads to the element with a phillips screwdriver and removed element. Installation was done in reverse order.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas