RBS360DM3BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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oven would not get hot
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Parts Used:
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Paul from GATE CITY, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven temp wouldn't regulate.
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Ronald from Crumpler, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Just didn't work no pwr to it
Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.
Parts Used:
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Jerry from HOPEWELL, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven would shut down while baking. Stove top would work.
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
Parts Used:
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Tom from ELIZABETHTON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven would not get come up to temperature
I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
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Arthur from INDIANAPOLIS, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Oven could not be turned off once settings were turned on except by unplugging hookup.
Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.
Parts Used:
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Charles from BENNETTSVILLE, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
Parts Used:
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Pearl from MIDLAND, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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My electronic control board went out so I could not use my oven. My oven light blew as well.
I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.
Parts Used:
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Stella from PADUCAH, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
Parts Used:
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Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person
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Oven would not heat up
I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.
Parts Used:
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MICHAEL from MORROW, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Parts Used:
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Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 7 people
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The bottome heater element of my oven burned out.
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
Parts Used:
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Mary from ALOHA, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
1 person
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The lower,BAKE, element had burned in half almost causing a fire.
Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.
Parts Used:
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Joseph from DIAMOND SPGS, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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THE FACE PLATE IS HARD TO GET OFF THE OLD CONTROL BOARD. USE A THIN KNIFE
THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.
Parts Used:
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Melvin from WEBSTER, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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temperature sensor went
Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks
Parts Used:
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Alex R from Randoff, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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