PWE23KMKUES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Would not self defrost.
Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.
Parts Used:
-
Greg from Rockwood, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
extreme frost build up inside in back of freezer,also veggies were freezing in the fridge draw
no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.
Parts Used:
-
larry from lisbon, ME
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
Parts Used:
-
William from Pasco, WA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Both the fridge aqnd freezer would not get cold.
Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.
Parts Used:
-
Mary from Farmingdale, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
defrost problem (refrigerator/freezer not cooling)
After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).
Parts Used:
-
Gordon from Sugar Grove, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!