PP975WM3WW General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

first ,troubleshot switch--it was ok. next,troubleshot triple element & found that the 9in portion had an open in the heating element itself ordered .new element,installed it .Works like new!

Been procrastinating putting in the new element but decided to do it yesterday even if it meant eating breakfast out. Twenty minutes after starting , breakfast was cooking, at home on the new element. Two screws out, switch wires, snap on retainers, replace two screws and you're done!

Wife said cooktop was not working. I cut power and dropped the cover on the electronics box under the burners and could see it was burnt up. Looked like it would be hard to fix so I ordered a new cooktop. However, they couldn't place order until they measured - and that would not be for a week. So, I thought I would order the circuit board to see if I could replace it. Parts Select had good links to appliance parts so ordering was easy. Needed help to pull out the cooktop and flip it over but switching in the new board was relatively easy although there were lots of connectors to keep straight. Turned it on and it worked like new and cancelled order. Saved $1300 and was a hero.

Took a picture of the old heating element to make sure that when I replaced the new element the wires were in the exact location as before.

Part WB30T10126 Triple Haliant Element-12 Inch was returned to you under Returns Reference 15682540. Mailed by USPS Tracking #9505 8161 4647 1005 7628 41. According to USPS, it arrived at your location Friday, Jan. 15, 2021 @ 10:49 AM. Please advise. Thank you, William Deal

I just watched the video that was on the website. It showed in detail how to replace the heating element. After watching it I was able to remove the cooktop, replace the heating element and put it all back together. The only issue I had was getting the cooktop loose but once I did everything else was easy.

Turned off power at circuit breaker. Disconnected electrical connections from stove and lifted stove top out of counter. Removed glass top by removing about 8 screws from side of stove top.Replaced burner element and replaced glass top.

Turned the circuit breaker off to ensure no power to the cooktop. Cleared all items in cabinet before accessing the control box where the board power univ. assembly was. 1/4" sock to back off six screws. Took many pictures of the unit inside. Orientation, color of wires, where zip ties are as you will have to cut them in order to disconnect the cable connections and where plugs we connected and direction.

Pulled box down and disconnected two green grounding cables using a 1/4" socket, again taking pictures to ensure I place the cables in the exact position as it is a tight fit. Unplugged cable connections (be careful as they are tough to disconnect from the bottom of the cooktop) and noted direction and orientation of wires to ensure the new board went int the exact same way. Squeezed the post clips that held the board the backplate.

Installed new board, pushing the post clips back in) be careful not to break them as they are made of plastic and can be broken easily. Reconnected cable connections and reinstalled the zip ties to ensure no cable are pinched when you place the board housing back in place. Reconnected the two grounding cables and ensure they go in the right direction as it is a tight fit in the box assembly. Now this was the hard part.

Putting the board housing back in place and lining up the holes for the six screws. This took some time to do as the new cable wires are new and a little stiff. Had to ensure that no wires were pinched and the cardboard walls where in the right place. Finally, was able to line up one hole a drive home the screw. From there I was able to use gentle force to line up the rest of the holes.

Once that was done and I checked the no wires were protruding out; I cleared out my tools and turned the circuit breaker back on. I tested each setting on the cook top and turned all burners on at the same time. Problem solved and with solid results. Cooktop now working very well and no issues.

Removed the two sheet metal screws securing the range top after disconnecting the power. Removed the mounting clips to the old range element and installed the new one. It was an easy fix.

First I found a u-tube video on how to repair this. I found the model number of my stove and used my phone to take a picture of it. I found the part on part select.com and ordered it. It came within a few days.
Turn off electricity to the stove. There were two screws to loosen and allow me to lift the glass stove top. It did not come off and we made a stick to hold it open. Then we unplugged and removed the old burner paying attention what was plug in where, maybe 4 plug ins. Then we clipped it back in, closed the top, rescrewed the top on. Turned on the electricity. It took 10 minutes to replace. Very easy!