PIG23NGSAFKB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

It was a simple remove and replace. The new part fits directly in place of the old part. Its a pain to remove the light but once you get the light out the job is simple. The light must be pried out gently. It is snapped in place toward the air inlet cover and needs to be pried loose. Once the light is out there are 4 screws holding the air inlet cover in place. Remove the 4 screws and unfasten the wiring harness. Once the screws and wiring harness are disconnected remove the old part. Reinstall the new part in reverse order.

Replacing the water filter with the new style water filter was no problem...twist to the left, drop the old filter, line up arrows on housing and new filter, twist to the right and done.

Ice maker was always crusing ice. There is a spring deflector wound around the actuating rod towards the back of the ice dispenser. Pulled the ice dispenser out, slid the damaged spring off, and slid the new spring deflector on making sure to engage the actuator rod to restore it's action. Easy fix.

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

I took the part out of the package and placed it in the recessed water dispenser/ice maker cavity. Done!

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

To take the ice dispenser apart is not difficult. A ring removal tool would have helped to remove the auger. The Auger nut was difficult to remove and I used a visegrip to pull it off. Once the retaining ring was removed the repair was easy.
Never did it before but figured it out.

several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!

Removed tension spring, removed old lever, installed spring on lever, inserted lever in hole, re-attached spring to hook under front of refrigerator.

Water line 5/16inch was severed, under refrigerator. Used union connector to join line. Dispenser plate removed using allen key to unsnap plate ,from under the plate itself. Removed screws holding solenoid valve and removed the plug from circuit board connected to solenoid. Installed new solenoid valve. Put flapper back in place, and made sure spring on left side of flapper is reattached to the opening on the flapper. This corrected all problems. Caution, keep an eye on spring that it remains in place.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

I removed the outer plate by sticking a very small screwdriver in the small holes at the bottom of the plate and pulling the plate toward me.
I then removed the 4 screws from the internal plate and pulled the plate toward me.
Then I romoved the 3 screws holding the old solenoid and unplugged it.
Next I put the new solenoid in place and replaced the three screws.
Finally I plugged in the solenoid and replaced the internal and external plates.

Removed front panel (using small screw driver) by popping it out, disconnected wire from solenoid, removed solenoid which was rusted, 3 small philip head screws held it in place insereted new solenoid,connected wire snapped front panel back in. Clapper valve closes tightly and no frost in frezzer, saved my self a bunch of money.