PEB206CDN2WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unscrewed the base plate (3 screws) on the bottom side of the microwave, unscrewed the motor (1 screw) replaced motor, reattached plate, plugged in power cord, works great! Took 3-5 minutes

FarBoat 12pcs Silicone Plugs Waterproof Tapered Round Hole Stoppers Black for 6mm Hole

To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

get microwave out of cabinet. Took two people because it was very heavy. Used special hex drive socekt because of dimple in the female nut.

unplug oven from power
remove glass turntable
remove cabinet housing
remove burnt out bulb
order correct part
reinstall new bulb
reattach cabinet housing
install glass turntable
plug into power outlet
confirm light bulb on

Remove the outer cover. Look for a ROUND (about the size of a nickel) device or anything discoloured or burned.
I read the schematics I enclosed inside the microwave. Look for (Flake sensor) remove the leads on both sides (2 leads) and check with an
Ohm meter. I should read shorted or CLOSED. Mine was open and burned. Obviously from metal object causing feedback. I connected the 2 leads together and the unit functioned perfectly. I ordered the part from the exploded view, installed the device (45 min tops) done. ??

removed the cover and checked the fuse, good. Followed wiring found the first thermal switch showing signs of extreme heat checked with ohm meter and was open. Replaced the terminals ,heat damage, installed new part worked good. I tried to find a wiring diagram but GE seems to think we don't need one. Although they send one inside the cover?? Probably some people should be real cautious trying to work on the power side of a microwave. I'm a trained Tech with 38 years in the power business. should have taken the wiring diagram out when I had the cover off but it said do not remove? So I didn't.

removed the outer case - this was the most difficult part because the microwave is large, heavy, and cumbersome.
once the outer case was off, it was simple - easy to see where the old part was and the replacement was an exact match
it was then just a matter of disconnecting the old burned out part and replacing it with the new one
then wrestling the outer cover back into place and re-fitting the screws.
Microwave is fine now and hopefully good for another 10 years!

Swapped new part with broken part.

Remove tray and rotating ring assembly. Turn the microwave onto the back. Locate the center plate and cut it loose with the side cutters. (Note: there are retaining slots on the opposite side) these slots hold the cover plate in place when reattaching. Use a magnetic phillips head screw driver so you don't drop the cover retaining screw. After cutting loose the cover, unplug the wires from the motor. (Note placement for correct reattachment). Remove 2 screws and remove old motor. Replace motor. Replace the screws and reattach the wires. Replace the cover (rotate so the prongs fit into the slots) tighten screw; you're done!!! I ordered the rotating ring, but I don't need it. Now I have an extra.

Remove the top of the microwave, regular phillips screws on sides, torque screws on back. Lift up back and slide off cover. Light bulb socket is easily detached and bulb unplugged and replaced. Slide cover from back lifted slightly so lip will slide into front of microwave, than replace screws. Be sure to unplug microwave before you start.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb.
Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity.
Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together.
I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply.
I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover.
I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years.
From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement.
I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.