PDW7800G00LL General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.

You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Turned spray arm while lifting upward to remove the old part. Place new spray arm over the water outlet and turned with light downward pressure until properly seated.

It less time to do the repair than it took to open the box and unwrap the part!

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.