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Models > PDS22SFSLS > Instructions

PDS22SFSLS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the PDS22SFSLS
106 - 120 of 132
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Defroster stopped working and iced up evaporator coil
I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Brandon from Bruceton Mills, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Just Needed A New Filter
Pressed the button, took out the old, put in the new. :)
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Water Filter
  • Marlene from Monument, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Fridge was freezing food near the back, adjusting internal temp not fixing the problem
Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Zachary from Decatur, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Not a problem
I was missing a part. The ice maker bin. I found it from the site with no hassle.I just called the customer servoce number on the site and ordered with the rep. My part was at my door step in no time. I love that part anout it.
Parts Used:
Ice Bin
  • Claudia from Miami, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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refig light did not work
per your instructions
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • paul from east hanover, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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coils were icing up and refrigerator section was warm freezer was cold
Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.
Parts Used:
Run Capacitor Temperature Sensor
  • Chuck from TARRYTOWN, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Both the fridge aqnd freezer would not get cold.
Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.
Parts Used:
Run Capacitor
  • Mary from Farmingdale, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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no light in freezer
Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • christopher from collegeville, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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failed light switch
I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.
Parts Used:
LIGHT SWITCH
  • Jules from Crowley, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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defrost problem (refrigerator/freezer not cooling)
After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Gordon from Sugar Grove, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the PDS22SFSLS
106 - 120 of 132