PDF22MFSBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the board, unplugged all the sockets, took the new board, plugged in all the sockets, and replaced the new board into the refrigerator. I was to applaud this business. I was first able to diagnose the problem by finding this site, then one of the customers explained how to fix the problem ourselves. It save us at least $100. The $25 overnight shipping fee was well worth it. We could have lost $100's of dollars worth of food.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard

Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.

First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.

The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.