PCSB330GC0WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

removed rhe control panel, 4 torx screws. removed top of unit 2 philips screws , lifted out of the way ro get to front panel . 2 more torx screws ro get front panel off then juat a matter of changing out worn parts & reassembling dryer unit took maybe an hour thing runs great now

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.

I followed the YouTube video and it gave me step by step instructions however I really needed to replace my dryer slides to fix the problem.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Unplugged dryer, slid away from wall, and rotated 90 degrees. I removed top panel, and front panel, pulling off 2 electrical wires, and disconnecting 1 Molex connector, for the door switch. I turned the front panel around, and leaned up against the dryer drum. I removed the light bulb, then snapped off the remains of the upper bearing, then unsnapped the duct panel assembly. I carefully positioned the duct assembly against the front panel, carefully making sure not to pinch any wires, and pressed into place. I then pushed the bottom of the top bearing into the duct assembly, and pushed the top into place, replacing the bearing wear strips, 2 black, 2 white once bearing is snapped into place. I rewired the door switch, put the bulb back in, screwed the front panel, then top panel back on, rotated back into position, plugged it in, and started dryer. Problem solved!

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off.Then two screws hold the front on come out. 4 screws top is off and front is off the rest is no problem.

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

Searched the sites order # online, called, ordered, delivered PDQ, unpackaged, popped in. That was it.

I pulled the old handle off and pushed the new one on.
No problem at all.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY