PCKS443EB4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

First I removed the drum as described in many other comments. Took me about 10 minutes, pretty easy. Replaced the part which was easy and could be figured out just by seeing how you took the original part off. The hard part was aligning the drum, drum washer, and metal plate back into the drum bearing. I tried over 2 hours to do this and because it rotates and it's almost impossible to line up all the holes, I decided to do it another way.

I took apart the drum bearing from the back panel and then outside of the dryer walls I aligned the drum, washer, metal plate and drum bearing. I screwed them all in together and then, went into the frame and reconnected it at the back w/ the horseshoe looking washer. It worked perfectly and I was frustrated that it took me so long to figure out a different way to do it.

I have to say because of the installation it was a little tough than anticipated but was very happy with the end result (no squeaking) and money savings. Definitely worth giving it a try if you're patient.

I love the Partsselect.com youtube videos. The man in those videos rocks!!! I did the repair of my rear drum bearing kit exactly as he showed me in his video and it was perfect. I have spread the word on facebook and around work about Partselect.com and friends and coworkers are already checking it out. Hey, everyone loves a good thing. I suggest that you do not be afraid, you CAN do it. Tear that baby apart and save yourself some money.

nd removed it from the unit.
5. replaced drum bearings
6. reassembled everything in the same order I took it off.

Be sure to mark any wires you may disconnect to ensure you connect them back correctly.
Was a bit frustrating at times, but made it through and there is no more squeek.

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

Put part in. Put the door cover on & turned on & it worked. Thanks for having the part. So far, so good.

Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.

removed broken part and replaced it altogether.

Take old grid slide and pannel off. Clean lint trap wire framework and replace. Make sure this trap frame fits snug against the door, otherwise it puts pressure on the new slide. This is the second time I have replaced this Grid Slide. Slid new pannel into grid frame. Ready to go.

Watched the video on YouTube and everything went great!

First I turned off the breaker to the dishwasher. I then removed the bolts that held on the inner cover(note the two small bolts go on the bottom one on each side). I lifted the switch up and disconnected the wire clips from each side. I then put the new switch in place with the wires attached. Then replaced the cover and screwed it into place. Closed the door and flipped the breaker back on and turned the dish washer on and it started up. A very easy replaceable part.

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.