MVW5430MW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

I tilted the washer to access the underside and gently attached the vice grips to keep the drive shaft from turning. I then used my socket set to remove the bolt holding the wash plate in place. I then removed the old wash plate and removed the vice grips before installing the new wash plate. Since the new wash plate engages the shaft (not stripped) I no longer needed the vice grips; it was sufficient to just hold the wash plate with one hand while tightening.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

It was really easy after watching the videio. I removed a single screw and took the agitator out, You could see how worn the center of the part was. The part that it went onto had a lot of rust built up on it, I used naval jelly and a wire brush to clean it. then put the new agitator on. It has been working well ever since. What's crazy is two repair men told me to
throw out the washer because the repair would be equivalent to buying a new one! NOT TRUE ---- Total cost $115.00. Received it really quickly. Thanks so much!

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

Spin indicator light was illuminated but machine was repeating rinse cycle rather than spinning water out of clothes. Replaced the pulley and drive coupler, thinking there was a mechanical problem. Video instructions were great but old pulley and drive coupler looked perfect so replacing them did nothing. Next I replaced the washer actuator (shifter), thinking that was the reason for no high speed spin. Easy job, as shown in the video, but it also did nothing. The problem turned out to be a failure in the control panel, probably resulting from years of vibration. Decided to stop chasing my tail and bought a new washer.