MUFF17VLRTA Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Easy fix. I unplugged the freezer, unload items in freezer. took out shelves and baskets, Pulled off the control knob then removed all screws. removed inside panel, replaced part exactly as I took out old part. Put the panel back on, put everything back in place. Plugged freezer back in and turned the knob to 3. Let freezer run for a day to see if I ordered the correct part. Problem is fixed. Thank you, PartSelect for making it so easy to find, order the correct part and for all the customers input to make the repair easy.

Repair was quick and easy. I removed the frozen food in the bottom so the back panel could be removed. The temperature comtrol is attached to the back of that panel. It has a metal wire with a capillary tube on the end to sense the temperature. I just installed it exactly like the old one came out. Be sure and don't get the wires mixed up. Sometimes it helps to make notes. This was also a good time to clean the bottom out and make sure the drain hole was clear.

It took two days for the temperature to stabilize. I was anxious for a couple days that there was something else wrong. However, it smoothed out and the temperature control (thermostat) is now working properly.

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

Turned thermostat down and freezer began to run. Once it was at desired temp it shut down and did not start again. Turning the thermostat down again caused the freezer to start again. At this point, decided the thermostat was defective.Unplugged the freezer and removed the shelving. Removed the knob from the thermostat. Removed the nine screws that held the back panel in place and pulled the panel forward. Removed the assembly that held the sensing tube in place and removed the sensing tube from it. Depressed the thermostat latch which holds it in the back panel and separated it from the panel. Removed the electrical connections and removed the thermostat assembly from the freezer. Reinstalled the new thermostat in the reverse order.

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

I knew from a problem years ago that the Thermostat was the likely cause so I ordered a new part and replaced it. Only need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the part and add the new one..

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

Turned freezer off and removed cover in freezer at the bottom, notice fan blades were broken off, removed the 2 screws that were holding the fan motor in place removed fan blade and replaced with new fan blade, problem solved

Replaced thermostat and it fixed the problem. Freezer comes on and turns off automatically and regulates internal temperature around 2-5 degrees.
The hardest part was extending the coiled probe tubing and forming it to fit into clamp without kinking it.

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

I recommend completing steps 1-3 before purchasing your part, so as to avoid my mistakes.

1) Unplug the freezer and clear whatever is currently in the door. This fix is fast enough you don't need to empty the whole freezer.

2) Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding the top hinge to the freezer. Once they're off, the hinge can pulled up and off.

3) Lift the door free from the bottom hinge. Important Note! Check that it's the door closing cam that's broken, and not, for example, the bearing that seats with the door cam that is listed on the freezer part of the schematic, and not the door part. If you're a smarty pants, you order(ed) the right part. If you're me, you continue with this tutorial but still need to order another part to complete the fix. Don't be like me.

4) Using your philips-head screwdriver, remove the screw holding the remnants of the old door cam to the bottom of the door. Pull out the old cam and insert the new one. Rescrew.

5) Grab your extra person put of your toolbox and have them help you guide the door back onto the bottom hinge. The door is not heavy but no one wants to play blind Battleship while your freezer contents actively defrost.

6) Stick the top hinge back into place and reattach the bolts.

7) PLUG YOUR FREEZER BACK IN! And also check that the door works now.

Used Phillips head screw driver to remove panel to expose old thermostat control. Took picture with phone to use and a guide. Replaced old with new and placed panel back o . Working perfectly! 30 minute max to complete.