MSF21D4MDH00 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

I was not able to unplug the refrigerator because it is housed in a built-in. I removed the icemaker and following simple instructions from YouTube was able to pry the cover off the existing part. After a few gentle tugs, I disconnected the pinned wires from the old part. Connecting the new part was a little tricky but I managed with a little contorting. As soon as the pins connected the freezer light as well as the refrig lights came on. It took about 15 minutes to complete.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I watched several video's on youtube that showed me how to replace the parts. Just Google "how to fix my freezer". I figured the only problem was the freezer Thermistor so I only replaced it. The refrigerator has one to. Instantly the freezer went back to Zero degrees and the defroster works fine after melting all the ice in the bottom. Make sure the drain hole is cleared. I ordered the bi-metal thermostat just in case but I don't need it. Be sure and position the thermistor down in the freezer rail on the right side just to where you can see it in the first opening and pull it back up out of sight and tape it to the wall where it comes through from the air baffle. It's important that it's 7.8 " down from the top of the freezer. Happy now, Freezer 0, refrigerator 37. This thing use to run all the time, I'm saying electricity now.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

I tried to replace the light in the fridge first but couldn’t get it out (that one has the control board and is very expensive) so a replaced the one in the freezer by prying it off the ceiling. When I plugged the new one in all the other lights came on full power. Strange but I sent the other one back.

On a side by side refer, you need both doors open to unscrew the three 1/4 inch screws,
1. Remove the ice tray
2.the ice arm needs to be in the up position, so no water will flow while dissembling.
3. Remove the two top screws,
4. While holding the ice maker with o e hand, remove the bottom screw.
Balance the ice maker and unplug the ice make electric plug in the rear of the ice maker.
5. Take the I e maker out.
6. The ice maker does not come with the ice arm, so you need to remove the arm from the old or broken ice maker and install it in the new ice maker.
7. Resemble in reverse order.

I did not unplug the refer from the wall socket, you may want to do this. It recommended but I did not.
There you go.

I originally ordered the led light control board but when I hooked it up I still had the same problem. My neighbor checked both door switches with a voltmeter and they were both good. I then ordered the light for the freezer and when hooked up the problem was solved. All lights worked. The freezer light has four tabs that allow it to snap into the roof of the freezer. Those tabs can be hard to see because there isn’t much room. I used a mirror to locate the tabs and a small flat tip screwdriver to push the tab over and removed the light.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

First off you need to shut off the water supply valve that goes to the icemaker. Next pull the refrigerator from the wall , thats the fun part. I did not unplug my refrigerator when I did this . You can to be extra safe. At the bottom on the back side remove the cardboard cover on the bottom like four or five screws and set this aside. The water valve is on the bottom on the right side. There are 3 water lines attached to it. Having a towel handy might be helpfull. 1 line supplys the water, 1 is for the water dispenser and 1 is for the ice maker. These are push in connections no wrench needed. Remove the 2 screws that attach water valve to frame. Arrange it to make removing the 2 wire connections and water lines easier to remove. Wire connections just pull off. Mark them as to what valve they go to. Next remove the water lines. you need to remove a plastic lock that insures that the water lines do not pop off, very simple. Next push down on the nylon connector push down on the top of connector and pull on the plastic water line at the same time and it will come out. Do this to all 3 water lines. Remove old water valve and install new one in the reverse order. The water lines just push in no need to mess with connector when line is in reinsert the plastic lock. Reconnect the power connections. Align the water valve bracket with screw holes in frame and reattach the 2 screws holding it in place. Now would be a good time to turn on the water and check for leaks. You can check water dipenser but ice maker has a mind of its own. If all is good reinstall the cardboard cover on the back bottom and push refrigerator back where it was. Make sure the water line is not kinked. Aftre a couple of hours the ice maker should start making ice.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.