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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This is a burner knob and is used in conjunction with your range stove top. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft. This part is black and gray with numbering indicating the various temperature levels fou...
Is your oven not cooling like it used to? You might need a new blower, a crucial component that circulates air to safeguard controls, wiring, and other parts from overheating. We understand how import...
This is a heat-resistant adhesive for your appliance. The heat resistance allows you to stick parts such as grate feet, gaskets, and felt seals in hot areas, such as a cooktop, without compromising th...
This part is the replacement grommet for your cooktop or range. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches in diameter. This part may also be known as the cooktop burner knob gasket, ...
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John
March 27, 2023
Is there a converting kit to go fron natural gas to propane?
For model number MGC5430BDB
Hello John, thank you for contacting us. The liquid propane conversion kit, part number PS11744582, fits your model. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you need help placing an order! We hope that helps!
I had the cooktop igniter wouldn't stop clicking on all burners. I unplugged the cooktop, it stopped and I left it unplugged overnight. When I plugged it back in the following morning it worked fine. However, I would like to buy the correct part, ahead of time, in case it fails again.
For model number MGC5430BDB
Hi Larry, thank you for contacting us. Based on the description you have provided, we would suggest checking the spark module, part number PS2094592. It sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel an
... Read mored remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas pipin
... Read moreg was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.
.gif "SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION Diagram and Parts List for Maytag Cooktop")
