MEDP586KW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.

Took off back panel. unscrew timer. unplug wire and replace new wires from new timer, one at a time to make sure plugged to right terminals. screw back on the new timer. replace back panel.

The dryer stopped heating. Took the front lower panel off of the dryer and obtained the troubleshooting instructions stored there. Used an ohmmeter (most volt meters also have an ohmmeter) and tested all the electrical components one by one (thermostat, thermal fuse, heater coil - following the troubleshooting instructions provided with the dryer) and found that I didn't have any resistance across my heater element. Removed it and sure enough there was a break in the heater coil. Ordered a new heater element from PartSelect for less than $50 and replaced it myself. Saved myself a good bit of money repairing my dryer myself. It was very straight forward and easy. If you can follow easy to read instructions you can do it.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the wiring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Watched on-line video on how to disassemble and test heater element, thermostat, and hi-temp shut down. Heater element was open. Ordered new heater element. Re-installed heater element iaw video provided with parts. Video provide was one of the best I've seen. Explanation on releasing access panel was especially helpful.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

Had loud squealing prior knew rollers was going. Ordered repair kit that contained new belt , idle pully, and rollers. Knowing I had previously mended the door switch ordered a new to replace it. Unplugged and removed the dryer. Removed front lower panel, then the top and took the screws that held the front panel and door switch. Then I took the belt off and removed the drum. Removed the rear felt and cleaned the drum with fine mesh steel wool applied adehesive waited 5 mins and attached new felt. Then went to work cleaning the inside of the dryer with an air compressor. Rollers were next, poped the retainers and slide old ones off whiped the studs with a rag and put new ones on. Did the same with the belt tensioner pulley that came with the kit. Installed the new door switch and reassembled the dryer. Works great again, quiet etc. Easy fix and glad I ordered the kit.

this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.

Took the back off the dryer. Found heating element unhooked the electrical connectors to the element,the high temp thermostat and the fuse backup. Opened the front kick plate, took the casing with element, ht thermostat and fuse bu out. Changed all three parts and reinstalled them. Turned on dryer and had heat. Been working great ever since.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

1 screw to replace.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.