MED3000BW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Lint can build up inside the dryer, and can cause a fire in EXTREME cases. If your model has a back panel that exposes the entire chute, this job is much easier. Unscrew the chute from the machine to remove it. Inspect and clean all the lint out, especially the bottom, next to the fan blower. The other version machine has a panel at the top that is welded on. Remove the two screws at the top corner of the rear bulkhead, where the chute is. Gently pull this inner panel away to free the top of the chute from the rear top panel. Then pull the chute down and out. Follow the reverse to complete the job.

Pulled the back panel off with nut driver , reached in removed belt from pulley , disconnected the spring , removed the the 1 bolt holding the bracket .
Put the new one in , in reverse order . Very simple , maybe 15 minutes total . While back is off , shop vac out any lint !!

Followed your video for replacing the Tension Pulley, Drum Belt and Drum Rollers. Models were not exact, but instructions were very clear and detailed enough for a "computer geek" to do the repair myself (with some help from my wonderful wife). Live in Ohio, parts came from Kentucky and I had them the next day! The dryer is almost 10 years old. Running great now. Thank You!

Use the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. Remove the dryer vent line. Take off the screws on the main back panel, the screws connecting the top. Place both off the side. Unscrew and remove the parts connecting to the heat line located on the left side. Remove the front unit screw attaching the heat line to the bottom of the dryer. Remove the four screws connecting the top and bottom of the heat line together. The two on the left side is a huge pain, make sure you have small hands to be able to reach on the side of the line. Pull the bottom of the heat line loose. The heating element is inside the line. Replace element and put everything back in the order it was removed.

Followed the instructions on your video.

Removed back panel to get to inside. Removed drum etc to replace drum rollers (ordered repair kit also), replaced the idler pulley etc, now like new. Repair successful!!!! Thank you!

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I am a retired applaince repairman not recommended for amature to repair this model.

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!

I removed the back of the dryer and then unscrewed the thermostat and fuse from the heating element shield and replaced with new ones. I simply reattached the back and did a test drying run. Good news, no overheating. Easy-Peasy

Thank you for your part service. It saved me about $ 200.00 dollars by Sears not coming out to repair a simple problem.

Called a appliance place. They said it was a serious problem with master board and it was gonna cost 425.00 dollars. NO THANKS. Ten minutes to open ten minutes to find the problem. ( which was no were near the master board). Seconds to find and order the parts on partselect.com. got it next day. 15 to 30 minutes later my dryers running like it was brand new! Love it.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.