MCE8000AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Step 1. Read all the comments about how to do this job in this forum. (i found them very useful)

Step 2. Read the directions that come with the dryer (they helped a lot)

Step 3. Don't forget to disconnect the power cord before reattaching the door switch wires (oucH! ) or doing anything with your dryer.

Removed the two screws holding in the Filter and removed the filter.

Removed the two screws holding the front onto the dryer.

Put the belt over the drum and proped the drum up.

Reseated the tension spring and pully in the proper slot. (On my machine it is the position closest to the motor).

Reassembled the dryer in the reverse order.

-Took top of by prying with screwdriver.
-2 screws and door wire to take off front panel.
-proped drum with 4X4 piece of wood.
-looped belt around drum where the mark for the old belt was.
-looped belt through tensioner and pulled with the screwdriver over the motors drive shaft.
-manually spun drum to make sure everything was right.
-put panels back on and was done.

You cant go wrong with the included directions and belt diagram. this is the first repair I've done of any kind that went flawless.

First unplugged dryer from outlet. Lightly pryed up on top of dryer to disengage retaining clips. Removed 2 screws holding sides and front panels together. Diconnected electrical connector from door switch. Remove clip retaining electrical harness of door switch from front panel. Removed front panel and placed to the side. Removed screws using a nut driver to retain the blower cover from blower wheel housing. Note there are 2 of the screws used to secure the blower cover to the base of the dryer, a phillip screw driver can be used for this. Also there is some sort of brace on the LH side of the blower cover that needs to be removed as well. Can be removed with either a phillips screw driver of nut driver. Remove retaining clip from motor shaft. Remove retainer clamp that had broke off from dryer duct work. Was able to us needle nose pliers for both. Removed old blower wheel and broken pieces. Vaccumed out lint build up with Shop Vac. Installed new blower wheel to shaft of motor. Had to lightly tap with rubber hammer to slide on to "D" shaped shaft of motor. Manually turned blower wheel to check out. Re-installed cover, front panel and lid in reverse order. Plugged in power cord. Told wife the dryer was fixed and became a hero, (might be because I started the next load of clothes).

Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?

My wife noticed a loud racket coming from the dryer. I took a look at it by opening the door and spinning the drum by hand and sure enough, the grinding, clunking noise continued. After a day of drying clothes, the noise got worse and then my wife said the clothes weren't getting dry at all. She could see the heating element glowing but the clothes would not dry. Sure enough, this was the case. While the dryer was turning, the outlet hose was still cold but the heater element was on. I went to the PartSelect site, entered the model number and looked at the common problems associated with noise. It said that the blower wheel was the second most likely issue. It also showed how to open the dryer and look for problem areas. First, unplug the dryer! Then, I took a putty knife (screwdriver would work - flathead) and pryed open the lid at each corner and opened the top. I then tilted the lid back against the wall to support the lid. There are two screws that hold the front panel of the dryer to the sides. They are on the inside of the cabinet up high near the top. I took these screws out and the front comes off by pulling the front panel away then up. There are three wires attached to a sensor on the front panel. I took a picture of these for reference and disconnected these wires to totally remove the panel. With the front panel off, I could see large clumps of lint trapped at the base of the filter screen. Now is a good time to vacuum this clean. Inside the cabinet at the bottom right, you can see the blower wheel. It was totally broken off the shaft that turned it. You can still spin the drum and see the shaft turn but the broken blower wheel would "clunk" around causing the noise. There are a small handfull of screws that hold the faceplate of the blower assembly on. Take these off and you will have full access to the blower wheel. DOn't worry about the wires on the sensor attached to the faceplate. If you want to take these off their clips, take a sharpie and write the color of wire each clip takes on the front of the faceplate for reference. The blower wheel is held on to the shaft by a circlip that is easily pushed off with a screwdriver or pliers and also a spring clip that is taken off with pliers by gripping the tabs with the pliers and squeezing the clip open. Save these two parts because the replacement wheel does not come with these pieces. I ordered the blower wheel, it was here in two days and replaced the wheel. Note: The wheel will take some effort to fully seat it on the shaft. You can take a hair dryer and warm the center of the wheel where the shaft will go thru to make the install easier. Do not use a hammer to beat the wheel onto the shaft or you will be ordering another wheel. I put my left hand behind the blower as support and pushed the wheel onto the shaft with my right hand and using a towel to cover the wheel center as padding. Reinstall the spring clip over the wheel shaft support and then pry the circlip back on the end of the shaft with pliers, reinstall the blower faceplate, reconnect any wires, reinstall the dryer front panel by first leaning the panel out and dropping the front panel onto the cabinet tabs at the bottom and then closing the front panel and screw it back down with the two screws. Reattach the three wires, close the lid, plug it in and your back in business. It took me longer to write this than it did to repair it. Good luck!

Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)

Raise the top and then remove two screws to remove front. Once the front was removed on this Maytag model it was not necessary to remove the dryer drum. I simply lifted the drum slightly and slid the belt around the drum to position the belt. I then pressed the tension arm toward the drum and fed the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley. I spun the drum a few turns by hand to insure that the belt was aligned properly. Then replaced the front cover and the top. Turned on the dryer to test and job was completed. Thanks to your video and prompt parts delivery the job was a snap. My wife didn't even have time to get mad.

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...

The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!

good luck!

Un pluged and Moved it out from the Wall, Raised the top, found broken belt. ordered belt on line, 2 days belt came in. cleaned all dust and dirt out put greese on berrings for rollers bleu out vent hose with Leef Blower. put top down, pushed back. pluged in and turned on IT WORKS!!!

Pretty much just followed the video - I'd never opened a dryer before, so I'd watch a step, pause and do it, then run the video a few more minutes, and repeat. These dryers are really extremely simple devices: just a heater, then a motor to spin the drum and run the fan (I think the same motor does both). So you loosen a couple of screws, pry the metal case open, and slip on the new belt. Done! I didn't keep track of time, but I'm psyched to have saved myself a $200 repair call! Standard delivery arrived in less than two days, just like they said it would.

Followed the instructions and the repair went like clockwork, took less than an hour. I spent more time brushing and vacuuming old lint from the innards of the machine than I did doing the actual repair. Finished up $0.78 richer, too, from the change I found inside the machine.

Was a little hard getting at the idler pulley being it was behind the blower assembly, but it was the only draw back.

Shut off power and gas, unscrewed lint vent, raised top on angle with rope, unscrewed and moved door switch, unscrewed and took off front, put new belt around drum, then raised front end of drum with 4 narrow pieces of 1" foam insulation which let me view and install the belt connection to the drive motor shaft, adjusted the level of the drum using the rope holding up the top, removed foam pieces, replaced and rescrewed the front to fit the drum front channel, replaced the door switch, replaced the top and screwed it to the lint vent, returned gas and power, and ran confirmation test.