MBR1957VES10 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Talking with the service tech and youtube video it was a snap... Saved a service repair and a 25% parts mark up..

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Snapped in new part

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I first removed the icemaker pump and filler tube fron the back of the refrigerator by using an adjustable wrench and pliers. (very simple connection) I went ahead and replaced both items at that time.

Next I opened the bottom freezer and removed the top wire tray and ice container. I removed the bottom nut from the ice maker, pulled the electrical plug lose from the freezer connection. I then just lifted the ice maker upward and off the two screws on the side wall and out it came!

I had a little trouble with the filler tube as it came into the freezer. I had to go back and forth to the back of the refrigerator and freezer a couple of times adjusting the tube, so it woiuld clear the inside freezer wall.

This was a very minor problem. I feel like if I had followed the instructions and made sure the tube came through before attaching the icemaker it would have worked like a charm!

What I really liked, was everything was in the box for the job.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Bought a new shelf

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!