MBF1958XEB0 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

Removed and replaced with new part.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Took out the drawer and upper rack out of freezer removed back wall from freezer took out fan motor housing and replaced motor and thermostat. Works like new now.

Remove lower freezer door from mounting frame (4 screws). Remove inner shelving and shelving brackets, Total of six screws, three on each side on lower brackets and 4 screws, 2 on each side on upper brackets. Remove ice cube maker (4 screws). Remove thermometer frame from back cover and slide thermometer out of frame. Remove 4 screws from back cover and remove cover. Slide thermometer through hole in back cover. Remove 4 screws from evaporator motor housing. Gently pull plastic fan off of motor shaft. Remove motor from housing and install new motor. Reinstall all parts in the order removed.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...