MAT14PDAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

Diagnostic: damaged timer
I unplugged and opened the control panel to remove the timer. Once removed, I installed the new timer. I placed the control panel back, plugged back, set the timer, and go! It's working like a brand new washer!

I made the mistake of ordering the parts without watching the video. I got everything I needed on my order except the special grease that was required, so I had to delay the completion of the repair and pay shipping again to get the grease -- this was my error. The repair was easy and didn't take too long, the video was right on, the parts fit exactly.

First time .Replace the clutch .miss placed one of the retainer clip .found it after the replacement came .It was in the fold at the base of the machine.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lift retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.

The repair was simple as you can imagine. Thought I could buy these legs at any big box store or at least at the local hardware store. No such luck. Partselect had the right product---easy to order and easy to install. Things around here are great.

Pulled it apart,layed it down and looked at it,and chaned the 3 springs. And it is like new again. . . . .

replaced handle

I the took washer to where I could lay it on its side.
Laying it on its side lets the suspension spring at the top go slack. Making pulling it from bracket easier.
Next , I lifted the tub up with a 2x4 and blocked it with another wood block. This let me have slack in the lower springs.
Of coarse I saved the hardest one (behind the motor) for last. I only swore a little! But got it to come out.
By the way, put in each new spring, before going on to the next one.
The new springs helped a lot, but I ended up ordering the wear pads a day or two later. They were very easy to replace. Just pop the old ones out of the frame with a screw driver. then pop the new ones back into the holes and you are done.
You may just want to buy them both and do it all at once. Saving moving the washer twice!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Since I had taken the washer apart before to find the problem, it was easier to remove the cabinet.Four screws and a electic connection. I remove the cabinet to get to the balance ring.I removed the tub ring by releaseing the catches and pried off the ring. Installation was just the reverse. Had some trouble putting the cabinet back whereit needs to be but once I got it the rest of the job was easy.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.