MAT12PDLGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

The repair went fairly smooth following the directions that came with the damper pad kit from partselect.com. It only took as long as it did because the glue has to dry for the pads and it takes a few minutes to scrape off the old pads and glue. this can definitely be done by a first time do it yourselfer. Pliers are needed to remove a spring hose clamp in the back of the washer drum. Two 4x4's are needed to rest the washer drum on in order to gain access to the pads (in directions provided).

Exactly as shown in your provided video from You Tube. What a life saver. The description of needed tools, and the fact that the main nuts securing the tub were REVERSE thread! I would not have suspected that and probably would still be beating on them, tightening them rather than loosening them!It is worth the price to purchase the spanner wrench (correct style), used to remove those tub nuts. Thanks for the great service and the video. Well done!

Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.

Moved washer away from wall. Removed rear panel (4 screws). removed hose bracket (1 screw). use vicegrip to "open" hose spring clamp. Removed old hose, slipped spring hose clamp over new hose. "Opened" spring hose clamp put new hose over washer drain, released vicegrip. Assemble in reverse.

The water pulley wheel kept seperating from the pulley shaft after numberous attempts with plumbers glue, the problem kept repeating therefor replacement was necessary. After ordering the part it was able to be replaced with the new pump and fast, washer running like new. Thank you so much.

1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!

Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!

I took the front panel off and was able to easily access and remove the leaking drain pump. Then I propped the front of the washer up onto some boards so that I could put the two pulleys back onto the new pump, then I just tightened the three bolts in order to tighten the pulleys. However,when I started another load of wash there was a leak in the bottom of the tub, so I removed the new pump and went out and bought a new washer, figuring that our 13-year-old Maytag was going to cost more to fix than to buy a new washer. Then I wrapped up the new pump and sent it back. Thanks for all your help and for letting me send back the new part...I received confirmation of my refund today. Bob Trautman

Follow the instruction from Partselect video. Strongly suggest to get all the tools ready, before you start.

I followed the instructions from the video on the site. It went more difficult than the video showed but it was due to the washer. The instructions were very good. The only really difficult step was taking the bearing sleeve off of the transmission shaft. I ended up with a Dremmel tool and cutting it off. It only took 5 minutes, if that long. The washer has run very well since the repair.

Put the parts on as described in your on-line videos. Was never able to get the metal sleeve off the old machine while installing the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. I didn't want to cut the sleeve for fear that I wouldn't be able to install the new one and ruin the machine. Video needs to address that issue more fully. Chances are that if these parts need replaced, then the sleeve will be as tight as ours - they won't just slide off like the video shows.

I removed the agitator, retainer nut, inner bin, old seal, and outer tub. To me it was important to clean all perts thoroughly for which I used an SOS pad and scraper which probably took me a little longer than average but I thought it was worth it to prevent doing this job all over again. Then I reversed the process.I do not have the special spanner wrench so I used a hammer and punch tool to loosen and tighten the seal and retainer nut. I also bypassed the injector valve since it was leaking as well and my washer is working fine.

I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.

I watched the video and everthing went pretty well. The only problem I had was removing the Clamp Nut. My Washer is more than 10yrs. old so there is a lot of water and lime build up. I use a Cole Chisel and a Ball Pen Hammer to break the Clamp Nut. Because you can dispose of it anyway a new Clamp Nut comes with your Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. The Tub wrench comes in handy for removing the Mounting Stem and to reseat the Mounting Stem. You are also going to need the Tub Wrench for reseating the Clamp Nut. You can order a Tub Wrench online there are various web sites.