MAT12CSDAQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed wet close and removed 99% of all the water with a simple sifon hose and sponges. Diconnected electric and water supply hoses. Layed washer on its back. Removed front of washer. Disconnected hoses to water pump and checked for blockage. None. You need to capture the risidual water from the hoses and the pump if you are working in an area that cannot tolerate spills. Pulled pump out (three screws) put a screwdriver and blocked the pump impellar and rotate the punps pully. Pully rotaded freely so the pump is bad. The two belts were pretty worn out so I replaced them also. Hooked up everything in reverse. Adjusted the tension of the belts as required. The drive belt for the pump should be pinched to 1/4". Checked the moter glides also. Put everything back together, checked for leaks and did a load of wash. Everything good. Dismanteling and diagnostics and clean up took about 30'. Assembly took another 30'. Purts fit perfectly.

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

Slipped on belts no tools needed.

I replaced the 3 screws because they were rusty. Then I replaced the Drain pump

Install belts.

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.

Received wrong springs for my model had too use combo old spring with the two new (too long) springs to get the tension on the belts. For now it working. Did not contact you due shipping took so long and two delay date change by FedEx ground. I didn't want to go thru another delivery nightmare. Thanks for the time.

Tilt the washer sideways. Remove belts,Remove front panel, loosen two hoses, loosen three small nuts. Take out old pump and install new new pump vise versa. Video provided by partselect very helpful.

Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.

Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .