MAH14PDBAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

With the video you had on your web site, the repair was very easy. couldn't be any happier. you saved me from buying a new washer!

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

I followed the video for the installation. I did find that installing the spring was no way as easy as it looked in the video. Otherwise, OK.

remove door phillips remove front push down and pry out remove soap tray phillips remove two nut screws to lift up topy open tie or support top up remove bad contactor phillips normaly open check with continunity tester replace and reverse procedure

Had to remove the door, the face of the washer, and two face pieces between the washer and the stacked drier. I then removed and replaced the bellow. The installation of the new bellow was difficult, the first time. Getting the silicone part onto the tub is tricky as is re-installing the cable and spring. I must have not gotten the cable properly seated on the lower lip as it leaked and I hade to repeat the job the next day. The second time around was much easier. There is a learning curve, even for me, a retired electro mechanical tech. I thing someone who is not very handy would have trouble with it. This repair should be considered only by someone of intermediate or better skills.

The instructions from Richard of Austin, MN were instrumental in repairing my clothes washer. I am an electronics technician, and my control board failed just like Richard indicated. One thing Richard did not state is that resistor R11 and Q6 did not fail until the wax motor (solenoid) shorted out. If I had used the old wax motor, it would have caused the new parts I installed on the board to fail. I did find the wax motor cheaper on other companies web sites but without the instructions Richard provided, I would have had to spend nearly $300 on a new control board instead of repairing the original board. The two limit switches on the machine can be checked using an ohm-meter, so they only need to be replaced if they do not close when engaged which can be done manually. I found the resistor and Triac at Radio Shack online. I repaired the machine for about $40 total. Michael from Austin, TX

I followed the video which I might say is somewhat misleading for the Maytag Neptune washing machine. This is the one with a recall due to mildew and mold build up on the Door Seal (Bellow). First to take it apart you really need a 8mm socket in order to get into tight spaces. Once you start using the socket everything will come apart quickly the last being removing the old Bellow. I found this is easy if you just roll the spring toward the front using a screw driver. Once it clears the front of the Bellow, the cable will fall off along with the spring. You can now remove the old Bellow. The next step is to insert the new Bellows on the rim of the tube. I started by attaching the drain hose at the bottom and then from the video, started at the top make sure you have it center correctly and worked down one side pushing the Bellows on the rim and then do the same thing to the other side part way. Alternating from one side to the other until you reach the bottom. The Bellow is now on the tube, NOW the hard part. First, the old spring was stretched. I bought a new spring at Home Depot. I next took the cable and placed it around the tube with the ends at the top. Make sure to thread the cable carefully so it is in place. Watch out for plugs and the drain at the bottom of the tube. I attempted to attach the spring by myself using a long nose plier and a Grip plier but just could not stretch is far enough by myself as shown in the video. I next took a 16 ga insulated wire you could also get at Home Depot and attached it to each end of the cable and twisted it together in the middle with pliers so it was tight and cut off the excess wire. I attached one end of the spring through the right eyelet on the cable and using the grip pliers and BOTH hands on the grip pliers pull the spring and threaded it through the left eyelet. Hold the spring in place I now pushed the stretched spring against the back lip of the tube. I removed the 16 ga wire buy cutting off the ends and carefully pulling it away. Next, I just followed the video. I pushed all the tabs on the Bellow in to the holes on the tub and then screwed the parts back in reverse order. Good Luck Al

The video was great. The only problem was getting the spring back on. It was way too stiff, so I put it in a vise and stretched it a bit. It's a bit fussy but your site made it go pretty easy. thanks

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

Followed the video, besides the spring, everything was easy.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

My Maytag Neptune quit spinning. I found an on-line diagnostic tree and traced the problem to the wax motor. Testing indicated that the motor had failed even though it was still getting power. The continuity between the wax motor and control board appeared to test good. Based on the apparent diagnostic results, I found PartSelect, read their reviews, and ordered and installed the new wax motor. Once installed, I discovered the new wax motor would not work. I did some more online research .It helped me to find that I had a burned R11 on the control board. It's great for those who want to try their repair skills before ordering a new control board at nearly $350. I I contacted Neptunehelp.com and explained I had just purchased a new wax motor from PartSelect. Neptunehelp sent me the rest of their Stage 1 Repair kit at a discount by eliminating the wax motor in the kit. The kit included solder, a solder wick, a wire to open the printed circuit board holes, and both a new R11 and Q6. The site had a thorough explanation as to why both electronic components should be replaced at the same time...any why both should be replaced if the wax motor has failed. They also had an excellent video on some tricks about installing the wax motor, and an excellent video review on soldering tips if you want to attempt a repair on your own. PartSelect was OK for as far as it went, and the wax motor I purchased now works as it's supposed to. But I hope they will link to the Neptunehelp.com site to assist those who are more adventurous and have more advanced do-it-yourself skills. If you know anything about a VOM and have ever done a little soldering, it may be a better option than buying a wax motor and control board when only the was motor, R11, and Q6 are needed. I've completed the whole repair, including soldering in the new electronic components, and have just completed one wash cycle...the unit now works like new. If you are unsure about your electrical skills, you might want to stick with PartSelect and buy a wax motor and control board. If you're more experienced, and don't mind spending about $50 before having to spend nearly $400, then check out the Neptunehelp.com site for some good one-stop shopping and some good instructional references. They have a couple of contingency plans if the Stage 1 kit fails to fix the problem.

Follow the suggestions on the rope tied to the side of the washer, then mechanically lever the spring open. Only change I would incorporate is using a block of wood to keep the wash drum from moving over as you pull on the rope to open the spring up. GREAT AND EASY FIX!

removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.