LRFD25850ST (ASTCLGA) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Pops right In

Food off top of shelf, drawers come out, glass tops come off, lift the whole unit up (can be a little heavy. Tilt sideways to angle past doors (remove door's lower bins as needed by removing food and lifting up). Turn upside down, remove 3 screws from metal rod and remove metal rod (may require prying out with screwdriver). Remove textured plastic top pieces from each side; some flexing is required to get one side up, then the other. Remove two hinged drawer covers by pinching in at their hinge points.

This is your last chance to clear all the walls, floor, and ledges at the bottom of your fridge. Just sayin'.

Put new shelf upside down on counter. Transfer metal rod to new shelf, screw it in. Transfer hinged drawer covers. Transfer textured plastic topic pieces, again putting one side (of each) in first and flexing unit a little to get other side in. Turn right side up and angle back into refrigerator.

Bring shelf flat and push to the back of the refrigerator until it is flush with the back. Lower whole unit until it rests on top of the side rails where drawers slide in. Left side has a tongue that will fit into a 2" or so notch near the front, right side will rest on top of a round bumper. Front coldness control should still operate smoothly. Put drawers in to make sure they glide and close smoothly. Put glass shelf on top and press down lightly to make sure lower shelf is stable and glass fits neatly into its plastic frame. Replace any door bins you removed.

Ta da!

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Followed instructions online

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

Unplug from wall receptacle. Pry switch out with screwdriver while pushing on inner tab. Then disconnect electrical plug.

Replaced a new shelf

1. Unplug the refrigerator (to avoid shock) 2. With one screwdriver pry open the switch on the side facing the door to a gap of about 1/8 inch 3. Insert a second screwdriver into the gap to press the plastic tab back slightly and this should release the part. 4. pull the part out and unplug it, you may have to pry back some small tabs on the sides, 5. Plug in the new switch 6. plug in the refrigerator the light should come on, if not tighten the connection 7. Insert new switch back into its slot, it should snap in place. Done!

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.

Used a small screw driver inserted into the front of the switch (facing the front) and pried until the switch was coming out. When out, I removed the connect harness and replace the switch with a new one.

Unscrewed what remained from broken door stop, aligned new one, screwed it in. Done!

I have moderate to good mechanical skills, but getting the old switch out was a sizeable challenge. Since this switch suffered some damage during extraction, I was lucky to have ordered a new one to replace it. Reinstall took approximately 90 seconds. PartSelect saved me an expensive service call.

Easy install, small screwdriver under back of old switch push out and pull out with small pliers. unsnap the old plug and install new. YOUR DONE

Read previous tips
Taped off area around switch to protect surface
Used putty knife to extract switch
Used screwdriver to separate connector from switch
Plugged in connector
Pushed switch assembly into opening
Removed tape

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.