LLR1415AJS Maytag Range - Instructions

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

i took out the new peace from the frame and i replaced into the old frame then i chopped the new plug also chopped off the old plug i connected the wires with electric tap then it got ready to plug in the new peace

Shut off power, pulled oven out, shut off gas, removed racks and bottom cover. Two bolts held the igniter on, remove those and feed the electrical connector plug through the back of the oven and replace igniter. Be sure the bolts are not too rusty as one if them sheared off and I had use a pair of side cutters to hold the screw while I removed the broken section of the screw.

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

removed oven door, removed all shelving....unplugged the electrical cord........unsrewed the igniter(2 screws)removed some of the insulation on back of oven that was covering the wire and plug......disconnected the wire plug...........reversed the process and 15 minutes later I was done............the oven works great.......the new igniter arrived 2 days after I ordered it. thanks

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.