LGHT1837LP9 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

We received the crisper drawer in magnificent time and unpacked it and washed it and dryed it, and just slid it into the refrigerator. Thank you for your very prompt service.!!!!!!!

Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Very easy. Watched a video on your site prior to getting the glass replacement. Removed the crisper drawers. Placed the glass in the front and placed it down. Took just a few minutes. Love your site and will come back again when needed. Thank-you.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Replaced thermostat and defrost timer and still freezer to warm.
After research with U-tube video of (Fixin it with Pappy) discovered that my fridge has one thermostat in fridge section and in cold months (live in ohio)the garage is cold therefore themostat in fridge does"nt need to tell the compressor to kick on. Pappy is a retired engineer and in very easy to follow instructions will show you how to fix this problem. Strongly suggest to search for his video on Utube. I did as he instructed and my fridge freezer works great in cold weather now. Its apparent to me I wasted my money on the parts. I didn't` need to replace. Just happy my Beer fridge is working all seasons now.
John from Ohio

Put crisper cover in place and positioned glass cover.

Since the glass was broken and gone I just had to slide the new glass on top of the crispers. This was not really a repair, just an exchange of new for the old.

Shut off water supply under the sink. Removed old valve and installed new valve. Turned water back on and within a couple hours the first batch of ice made.

Simply slide the new glass insert in!

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

I take 2 crew on front of the fridge take the cover and fan out replaced the part and put everything back it’s a easy job thanks guys for the parts from Orlando fl

I ordered the replacement part. Cleaned out the bottom of my refrigerator, popped in the new part, replaced the food and was siting in my recliner in under 15 minutes.

Simple repair and less than 30 minutes.
But the video you had was taken down which showed you need to wind the timer. I called and was promptly sent another video, thanks Ashley !

Unfortunately the second video did not mention that you have to wind the timer, like the first video did. Turn clockwise till you hear 2 clicks.

All good. 20 year old fridge chugging along.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.