Models > LER4634EQ2

LER4634EQ2 Whirlpool Dryer - Overview

Sections of the LER4634EQ2

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Manuals & Care Guides for LER4634EQ2

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Dryer Thermal Fuse – Part Number: WP3392519
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(325)
PartSelect #: PS11741460
Manufacturer #: WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse ...
$20.42
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(327)
PartSelect #: PS346995
Manufacturer #: 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the ro...
$16.60
  In Stock
Heating Element - 240V 5400W – Part Number: 279838
Heating Element - 240V 5400W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(182)
PartSelect #: PS334313
Manufacturer #: 279838
The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5...
$61.83
  In Stock
Dryer Cycling Thermostat – Part Number: WP3387134
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
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★★★★★
(87)
PartSelect #: PS11741405
Manufacturer #: WP3387134
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heate...
$26.91
  In Stock
Thermal Cut-Off Kit – Part Number: 279816
Thermal Cut-Off Kit
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★★★★★
(108)
PartSelect #: PS334299
Manufacturer #: 279816
The thermal cut-off (Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit, Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit) prevents the dryer from overheating when the dryer high limit thermostat fails in a closed circuit condition. This part ...
$43.44
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit – Part Number: 279570
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(106)
PartSelect #: PS334230
Manufacturer #: 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, ...
$6.32
  In Stock
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 349241T
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
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★★★★★
(92)
PartSelect #: PS347627
Manufacturer #: 349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does n...
$22.12
  In Stock
Dryer High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP3977767
Dryer High Limit Thermostat
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★★★★★
(26)
PartSelect #: PS11742185
Manufacturer #: WP3977767
A dryer high-limit thermostat (High Limit Thermostat, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Dryer High-Limit Thermostat) is a switch that is actuated by temperature change. This high limit thermostat acts as a safety ...
$21.67
  In Stock
Idler Pulley Assembly – Part Number: WP691366
Idler Pulley Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
PartSelect #: PS11743765
Manufacturer #: WP691366
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long t...
$18.32
  In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring – Part Number: WPW10512946
Roller Support Tri-Ring
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★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11755850
Manufacturer #: WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$9.45
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for LER4634EQ2

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    Ed
    March 11, 2020
    Getting a consistent noise from the tumbling process. Sounds like it clunks every revolution same spot. Had the back and top off didn't notice anything. Drive belt seems ok. The seal band looks like its starting to deteriorate as i trimmed a couple strands off that were loose. Thought that might have been the problem but no.
    For model number LER4634EQ2
    Hi Ed, Thank you for your question. If you are hearing a clunking sound when the dryer is in use, you should check the rollers and the drum belt. If they show signs of damage or wear they will need to be replaced. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.

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      Common Symptoms of the LER4634EQ2

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      No heat or not enough heat
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      Will not tumble
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      Will Not Start
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      Noisy
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      Takes too long to dry
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      Door won’t close
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      Shuts off too soon
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      Too hot
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      Will not shut off
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      Timer will not advance
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      Marks left on clothes
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      Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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      Touchpad does not respond
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      Lid or door won’t close
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      Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
      Dryer was working, but no heat.
      First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
      Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
      So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
      I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
      Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
      Parts Used:
      Dryer Thermal Fuse
      • ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        15 - 30 mins
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
      2629 of 2935 people found this instruction helpful.
      Dryer motor runs, but no heat
      To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

      To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

      You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

      Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

      Good luck.
      Parts Used:
      Heating Element - 240V 5400W
      • Gadi from Irvine, CA
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        30 - 60 mins
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver
      2154 of 2317 people found this instruction helpful.
      Dryer tub belt broke
      Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
      Parts Used:
      Idler Pulley Assembly Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
      • Ray from Denton, TX
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        30 - 60 mins
      • Tools:
        Screw drivers, Socket set
      1133 of 1209 people found this instruction helpful.