LEC1330AAB Admiral Cooktop - Instructions

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Disassembled upper unit with Phillips screwdriver. Removed 2 "plug connectors" from element switch. Replaced switch. Plugged both connectors back onto switch. Reassembled the upper portion of the range. Tested and OK

Remove heat coils, take body of coil inserts out, remove screws from body, cut old receptacle out, tie new recptacle wires to the old piece of left over wires using wire nuts, and reassemble body, insert heating coils and test.

Disconnect the range from wall outlet. remove 2 screws in the back of the cabinet,remove switch plug. connect back range to outlet to check if it is the switch. make sure the light isn't on. then I order the switch online at PartSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. When I installed the piece, the problem had been solved. I hope this information will be helpful for others.

used drill to remove old screw

Ordered a front burner but it was not the right size. Ordered a switch after local dealer said I had a bad switch. Ordered a switch from Parts Select and received it the next day. Works good now.

Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".

took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type this but i am slow at typing

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.