LE8317L2 (PLE8317L2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.

First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't for
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.

M.B.

Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Watched the videos first. Unplugged the dryer plug. lifted the top of the dryer and braced it. removed the front cover and bulkhead and disconnected the wires. Removed the drum and belt. removed the 2 screws to the motor plate to replace the idler pulley. installed the belt around the drum and inserted the drum. routed the belt around the idler pulley and checked for alignment and twists. reinstalled the bulkhead and the front cover. plugged the dryer cord back in and listened to a quiet dryer. The dryer also dried the clothes in one setting. Yahoo and saved a bunch of money fixing it myself. I recommend to anyone to watch the videos on site to diagnose dryer noises. You'll be amazed and save money doing it yourself.

This dryer is an older one. I have kept it running throughout the years by just replacing parts a needed. This was a kind of rebuild. The dryer was making that squeaking noise when running so I knew the "glides" were worn and the belt, rollers and idler pulley had never been replaced. I ordered the parts from this website and I must say it took a while for them to ship, of course I guess since it was during the holidays that's to be expected. Once I received the parts I took the dryer apart. This model has a lower panel that comes off first then there are two 5/16" sheet metal screws that hold the door panel in place and then two more to hold the top down. Then I removed the front bulkhead which holds the drum glides. I replaced the glides then removed the drum from the dryer. To removed the motor there are two 5/16" screws to removed then pull the motor from the bottom. I then replaced the idler pulley, the two drum rollers on the rear of the dryer and the belt on the drum. Reassembly went fairly easy. I found the door switch was bad during reassembly because the dryer would not shut off once the door was opened. So picked up a new door switch from a local supplier, replaced it and all is good now. There really isn't that much to a dryer. A motor, heating unit (in the rear), control unit/timer on top, and then the rollers, idler pulley, and drum belt. The video instructions on this website were quite helpful. Hopefully it will last another year.

I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.

Went on line to this sites video's to diagnose the problem. Steve Ash is EXCELLENT. Put idler& roller replacement video's in my Favorite File! Ordered parts PS11741930&PS11741913 from this site on line. Good price, Fantastic 1 1/2 day delivery (Fed Ex ) Referred to great videos for installation. Hints: 1) Be sure to identify ALL wires 2) Be careful removing snap rings from rollers, I stretched mine and had to reform them.(new ones did not come with the rollers. 3) It would be a good time to replace the belt & drum pads when the drum is out.

Followed the recommended repair under noisy machine, replacing the 3 recommended parts. The 10 minute video was extremely helpful. Important note: there are two(2) drum support rollers. Also, you definitely need very small C ring pliers and don't forget to label all wires before disconnecting.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.