LC600DXF-1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer from wall outlet. Turn off Hot and Cold water at the valves. Place towel below water inlet on washer and remove Hot and Cold water lines. Use channel lock pliers if connections are too tight. Put hose ends in bucket to catch water left in the lines. Remove two Phillips head screws from the rear of washer cover. Slide cover to the rear to remove. Disconnect 4 electrical harness plugs from inlet dispenser valve. 3 valve plugs, red, green, and blue. 1 thermistor sensor plug. Use Flat head screw driver to pry tabs on inlet valve and vent pipe retainer at the rear of washer. Remove retainer. Twist vent pipe counter clockwise and remove. Use Phillips head screw driver to remove 2 screws on the lower right and left sides of the dispenser valve. Recommend using a magnetic screw driver as dropping a screw will prolong the job. Pull back on dispenser valve and save 2 rubber seals that come out. Put the seals on the new dispenser valve and reverse previous steps to re-assemble.

I turned off water valves. I then unplugged the AC. I took the 4 screws out on the back end of the top cover of the washer. I removed the two water lines from the water inlet vales and the two electrical connectors. I then removed the two screws holding the water valve assembly and it came out easy. Installed new water valve assembly mounted with two screws , then put the electrical connection and water lines back on new water valve assembly. I turned the incoming water vales on and installed the top cover with the four back screws and was done.

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

It was almost self explanatory once I got the screws out

I shut off the water supply and started a cycle to release the pressure on the valves. Unplugged the power. Removed the top by unscrewing two screws on the back. Unscrewed the water lines and snapped off the plastic retainer for the water lines and overflow tube. Disconnected the wires to the red, green and blue valves, as well as the small black sensor on the side of the valve assembly. I had to unlock and partially disconnect the overflow tube to allow me access to one of the mounting screws. Removed the other mounting screw and separated the valve assembly by pulling it firmly. I put a little silicone grease on the two rubber mounting grommets and inserted the new valve assembly and re-assembled screws, wire harnesses. Replaced the top and screwed it down.

The washer was in the garage, and if you take off the top of the washer, the entire inside is un-insulated. THAT is why these things freeze and break in the cold. Turn off the water, un-hook the water hoses, remove the frozen valve body (two screws into the soap dispenser) and replace. The new part doesn't come with the rubber grommets that slide into the soap dispenser, so use your old ones. Put some WD-40 on the rubber grommets and push the valve body into the soap dispenser....it will slide in soooo much easier than without it. After screwing in the two screws to the soap dispenser, wrap the valve body loosely (but completely) with some fiberglass insulation. I insulated the whole inside of the washer (staying clear of the motor and belt) so that it would survive colder temps!

This is complicated repair. It requires removing the dryer unit to get access to the water valve. The repair requires 2 people. One to help stabilize the dryer in the removal process and also to hold the dryer on top of the washer once it has been taken loose. The other person does the actual repair. None of the online techs had a clue on how to do this repair. So this was a learn as you go event. First completely disconnect the unit and move it so you have access clear around the unit, as you will need to be able to get on all 4 sides. Now as you face the unit remove the angled cover panel between the dryer and washer. Behind the cover panel is another panel for rigidity, remove it. Slide your hand down the inside of dryer cover panel on the left side. This will also require a flashlight to see what you're doing. Find the 3 hex headed screws that hold the left side on on the washer. DONOT CONFUSE THESE WITH THE SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE THAT ARE EASY TO GET TO!! There is one at the rear, then one at the center, and one right up against the edge of the front. The one at the front is almost impossible to get at. Remove the front one FIRST. ALSO LOCATE THE 2 EXTRA HOLES BY THE FRONT SCREW BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SCREW. Cause when you get ready for the reinstall those 2 holes are an issue. If you wait to remove the front last, the dryer unit is no longer stable and it will BITE you. Now go to the right side and repeat the process. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the dryer! Remove the 2 external screws at the rear where they hold the L bracket on, one on each side. Now the 2 of you pick up the dryer and sit it on the washer. There is just enough slack in the lines, wires to accomplish this without having to disconnect any of them. Replace the water valve, this part is a no brainer. Now for the reassembly. Sit dryer back in its proper place on the washer, have your helper hold it securely. Line up the holes. Install BUT DONOT TIGHTEN the rear and center screw on each side. Now attempt to install the front screws. Make sure you get them in their correct holes, the 2 spare holes are not threaded and larger all they do is grab your screw and make you fight to get it back, which can be done. Attach the 2 external screws on the rear. Tighten all the screws now. Reinstall the structure panel on the front, and then the cover panel. Hook up unit and you're done

The swap out difficulty is in getting to the part as a beginner handy man this was a challenge. You may need a second person to make things easy. Another to screw the part from the outside while you hold the part from the inside. However, the real problem was so simple I could kick myself. The COLD WATER PRESSURE WAS TOO STRONG. I simply turned down the cold water pressure some and the washer goes through all it's cycles. I really hope this helps someone else out there before they go buying parts or even a new machine. I did hours of internet research and I didn't come across this simple answer. I changed an electric water valve and a temperature switch before realizing it.

Remove top. (2 screws). Remove Plastic cover plate from back where hot cold connections are made (pry carefully to release tabs). Remove vent tube by turning and pulling out.(this allows easier access to second screw). Remove all three color coded electrical connections. Remove two screws that retain valve (this is where I recommend a magnetic bit. (don't drop either screw) Pull valve out, then up and back in to remove. Reverse to install. Good Luck.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

First unplug power cord and removed water hoses, then removed rear panel of machine. Shop-vac old debries out of machine Remove small spring holding belt tensioner pulley assembly. Remove hex key from motor shaft that connects to the pump. Use pliers to spin clamps out of way so you can then remove the (4) four bolts that hold pump to bottom of the motor, no need to remove other pump bolts. I used a straight screwdriver to pry the pump loose from the motor shaft to slip the old belt out of the machine. Put new belt on and reversed process for reassembly. :Note: Shop vac up water that leaks out of pump when you remove the 4 bolts, also wipe down pump so you can check for leaks after tightening pump back onto motor.

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

It took longer to remove and then replace the back of the washer than to replace the water inlet valve. The video made it look easy and it was!. For the next perso: remember that if the water valve springs a leak and the washer has water in it, turn the dial to spin and the water will leave the drum. No need to siphon out the water.

Replaced Water inlet Valve. Did not solve problem. Rapidly cycled switch between Small and Super Size load and water began filling.