LC600DXF-1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

My husband made the repair. First, he had to remove the dryer off of the top of the washer since it's a stacking unit. Disconnect water lines. Next he removed two screws from the back of the washer that allows you to remove the lid. Now unsnap a trim piece that is on the back surrounding the water connections and an exhaust port. Reach inside the washer, turn the exhaust port unlocking it and pushing out the back of the washer as far as you can to get it out of the way. Disconnect the electrical lines from the valve dispenser. Remove the two screws that fasten the valve dispenser to the washer. Install the new dispenser and reassemble.

unscrew the top from the back. lift it up. Support the top and then unplugged the old valve, unscrewed it took the drain hose off it and presto the old came right out. align the new one was a little tricky and attached the drain hose and tightened the screw hook up the wires reattach the top and I was done. 30/45 minutes. I was really surprized that the part I ordered was the same one I took out. Thanks for being there.

I have a stackable unit. My son and I removed the dryer from the top of the washer, removed the top, and rear panels on the washer. We romoved the old water valve, and installed the new one. It was a VERY simple repair.

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

pull up on top ,take two screws loose on front panel(pull off) vaccum old debri out,pull tension pulley back pull old belt off,holding tension pulley put new belt on .put front panel back on and snap top back down to secure.
working perfectly nice and quite !!!

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Removed top cover to get access to intake pipe for hot & cold water. Remove electrical connections and two screws replaced part and cover. Thanks very quick service.

I unplugged the washer, turned off hot and cold water at the source. I wrenched off the 2 hoses from the washer (have a towel handy for the residual water in the hoses and keep them elevated until you can drain the residual water out into drain site, where you turn off the water supply). I removed the 2 screws that held the top panel on (back side top corners) & slide off top to see interior. I used screw driver to pop off plastic piece that secures 3 tubes (hot water, cold water & exhaust vent). I then unplugged all 3 wire harnesses from the water valve & temperature wire from left side [assuming you are standing at the back of the machine where you have to be to do all this work]. I then untwisted the exhaust vent plastic tube (large cream tube at far right in machine) & somehow managed to get it pulled out. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the old water valve- one on left is easy, the one on the right is difficult due to lower position next to exhaust vent - I had to hold my other hand [thankfully I have small hands] under the screw location as my screwdriver was not magnetic so I wouldn't drop the screw into the machine). I then removed the valve assembly by pulling slowly backward & removed. I then just reversed the above to replace the new one. Not bad for my 1st washer fix ever. I've used it 5 cycles now and no issues.

Following the instructions on your page I was able to see quite clearly what needed to be done. I received the new part promptly and my machine is now working fine. However, the ongoing story with the dryer is another matter.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

Close examination revealed cracked plastic inlet area. I removed top of machine any carefully was able to loosen an pull damaged (froze over the winter) part back to remove. Attachment screws difficult to access, had to use magnetic screwdriver attachment during reassembly. Always iffy when working with plastic parts.
Part arrived 2 days later, took about 40 minutes to install.