LBR1415AGS Maytag Range - Instructions

removed oven door, removed all shelving....unplugged the electrical cord........unsrewed the igniter(2 screws)removed some of the insulation on back of oven that was covering the wire and plug......disconnected the wire plug...........reversed the process and 15 minutes later I was done............the oven works great.......the new igniter arrived 2 days after I ordered it. thanks

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

I have worked in maintenance field most of my adult life and all aspects and to change the oven door gasket was no challenge what so ever. It took longer to find my needle nose pliers to remove the old gasket clips and then re-install the new gasket. Maybe 10 minutes total

unplugged range took the oven racks out removed bottom plate, removed 2 screws from the igniter, wiggled the connector out of the hole, unplugged the connector. reconnected the connector reattached the igniter and put the plate and racks back in plugged the range in and it works just like it should. took about 15 mins. easier than I expected.

I replaced the igniter.

Took off oven door. Took out oven racks. Took out bottom oven cover above igniter. Igniter is held in by 2 screws,took them out with a small socket. Went to back of stove and unhooked white plug in - (part of igniter) Thats it. About as easy as it gets. Just reversed the process putting in the new one. Took about 25 minutes. It would have taken less time but I had a problem with one of the screws. Probably from the heat. The oven is 9 years old.

easy

After reading about my problem, I determined it was the igniter. I immediately ordered one. It came two days later. I took the bottom drawer out and removed the shield. To get to the plug wires, I unplugged the old igniter. I used my power nut driver to take off two threaded screws so igniter could be removed. I then pulled the old igniter out. Plugged new one in and reversed process to install new one. I installed it when I got home from work in less than 30 minutes. all is well. We were looking at buying a new stove for $700.00. I fixed it for less than $60.00. Thanks

took the top oven door off because you need to reach back to take off the igniter it take a 1/4 inch socket to do this only 2 bolts or screws then slide to stove out a bit to reach the plug in the back of stove its a clip type plug in it don't matter it plugs one way cant get it wrong that it put the new on but slide the plug through the hole in the back of the oven first then bolt it back and your put the clip on in the back of the stove. turn it on. mind came on fast and that is what you want it to do your done. this repair is in the bottom in the broiler area might need a flashlight to see with.

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.