I used the putty knife to release the spring clips on the machine lid. They are about 3" in from the side of the machine. Then I lifted the top of the washer up holding the lid in place. I then used a screw driver (torx) to remove the hinge from the bottom of the washer top. The lid should come right off. Then I the removed the broken hinge pins from the back of the lid with a screwdriver and replaced with the new parts. There is a little tab that the pin fits in the lid to assure you have the pin installed correctly. Then I slid the hinge back on the pin and reversed the process reinstalling the hinges and closing the top of the machine over the spring clips and your done. Very easy repair that I completed in less than 15 minutes.
My 24 year old Maytag performance washer started occasionally not agitating. Eventually it did not agitate at all but would spin.
The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.
My husband unhooked the water lines, unplugged the washer and remove the waste water hose, then we tipped it over and easy as pie the belt came off and the new one went right back on. I did not see any tears or breaks in the old belt, but it was stretched out a bit, and the washer is once again quiet. This also gave me an opportunity to clean under the washer, which we all know we don't do unless we have to. Cheap, quick, and easy fix for someone to do there self.
Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos
Took off belt and ran motor. No noise. Then took off drain pump and spun it by hand and felt rubbing on one spot. I figured the bearings were going bad, so I ordered the parts and replaced them.
I followed the instructions that other posters suggested. The springs were the toughest part to remove and reinstall. Having my wife push the tub enabled me to use vice grips to get them back on. Read about the coins or washers to spread the springs too late... would have helped. Running a wash now and it's spinning great and no noise!
Washer was shaking/thumping during the spin cycle for even the lightest loads. Previously changed the suspension springs, and the problem was not resolved.
I was able to locate the service manual for this washing machine online and download the PDF for free. Getting this will provide dis-assembly instructions and photos.
Sorta like requiring that you disassemble an engine in order to change the oil filter. Engineering suggestion here for any Maytag folks cruising the site. Mount the snubber ring with it's own clamping ring so that you can change it (snubber) without removing the agitator & spinner basket from the tub. Think something like this... Remove suspension springs, remove hoses, flip entire assy. upside down, then replace snubber ring without any further dis-assembly.
I followed the service manual's recommended approach, here are the basic steps:
1) Open the small back cover and detach the wash drum's drain hose at the waste pump, and while you've got back of the unit visible, tip forward and unhook the drive belt from the motor, pump and agitator.
2) Use a spatula or putty knife on the front seam between the lid and the lower body to unlock the spring latches which keep the top on. Flip the top up and back to get into the basket area. Take off the front cover so you can see the wash drum.
3) Remove the top cap/splash guard around the wash drum by pressing the cap/splash guard down while unhooking the little ears.
4) Remove the fabric softener cap from the center of the agitator and remove the bolt that's down the center of the agitator. This will require a socket. Remove agitator and plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the agitator.
5) Remove the plastic sealing nut. This nut has a number of small plastic points on it and I broke a number of them off with the channel-locks while removing this. You may need to order a spare.
6) Remove the washing drum.
7) Use the spanner to remove the basket hub. I made a spanner out of some scrap steel parts I had and mounted using the screws I took out in step 5. If you have a spanner, you're set here.
8) Unhook the suspension springs and you should be able to lift the entire unit right out of the base.
9) Remove the cap on the bottom pulley and pull the E-clip that holds locks the pulley in place. Remove the pulley and plastic gears which mesh with the transmission shaft.
9) The snubber ring (the problem here) is located under the brake plate/ring on the very bottom. The brake assembly is preloaded with a spring inside, the manual says to use a special spring compressor while assembling. I didn't have any trouble holding it down while I had my 5 year-old daughter start the screws for me. Remove the 6 small screws around the brake ring and remove the shards of the worn out snubber. Replace with new snubber and start re-assembly.
Possible Shortcut:
After doing this, I see it may be possible to shortcut the factory directions. I can't guarantee that it will be successful, but after doing it I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Following above numbers: 1) Do numbers 1-3 above.
2) Jump to step 8, remove the suspension springs and just get the entire drum removed and inverted. Don't mess with the legs, don't mess with the attachments or anything. You will only need to work on the pulley.
3) Remove the drive pulley and brake retaining plate. Shouldn't need to do anything with the inside of the washing drum here. No need to mess with the seals and/or plastic nuts.
