LAT7300AGX Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. Identify washer model and symptom
2. review page of suggested part; view installation video
3. order part with standard shipping
4. receive part next day and install just as the video showed

Entire job from going to PartSelect website to completion took less than 24 hours. Hardest part was moving the washing machine. Machine is nineteen years old and now works perfectly. Unmatched service.

I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.

Removed the front of the washing machine. Located & removed the water inlet valve from it's mounting on the back
inside face of machine. Replaced water valve, & restarted machine. Like new again!

Can't say enough about the speed of parts delivery & professionalism and accuracy recieved from the team at Parts Select. Thanx again,

Greg W.

Took off front washer panel push drum to one side reached in took out four screws on back of washer removed siphon break from ebow for drain hose pulled siphon break to front of washer cut hose clamp installed new part reversed procedure to put washer together Tested operation worked fine no leaks no water on floor wife very pleased with fix Thanks again for fast delivery and great inventory of parts

First removed 2 screws(phillips) at bottom of front cover and lifted front to remove. Then removed 2 3/8 screws from under top cover and lifted cover and slid forward to exposed Syphon Break. After running briefly on spin, it was easy to see where the leak was. Syphon break was installed in 5 minutes by removing both hoses and 4 hex screws and reinstalling. Part arrived as promised in 3 days. I was very pleased with the whole experience.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

Remove the following items: Washer to sink hose (loosen hose clamp and twist hose), two philips screws from bottom of front panel, front panel, upper side bolt screws, tilt up top washer deck and secure, remove 4 syphon break screws from rear of unit, remove pump to syphon break hose,
remove old syphon break, install new part and tighten with hose clamp, re-install pump to syphon break hose, re-assemble in reverse order. Check for leaks. Show your wife.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

Went on line an watch video that described the problem. Order the part and received it overnight. Went back online to your website and watched the video on how to do the repair. Followed the suggestions in the video and finished the repair in about 30 minutes. Really appreciate the help your company give me and have bookmarked your site for future use.

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

Had to take the back off to replace valve

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.